BLUEWATER PREP AND A SPRIT

Q: I have a 1977 Sabre 34 masthead sloop—12,000lb, 10ft 6in beam, 5ft 6in draft—and I am going to attach a traditional wooden bowsprit and manual windless as part of turning it into a bluewater cruiser. How do I determine the length and size of the sprit, both from the tip of the bow projecting out and back to the Sampson post? Any thoughts? Morgan, sailmail@sailmagazine.com

NIGEL CALDER REPLIES

First of all, I am not clear as to why you want the bowsprit. There is no need for one to extend the sail area; and given a moderately well-raked bow with significant overhang, there’s no need for one to keep the anchor from banging the topsides when it is retrieved in choppy seas. That said, the standard stemhead fitting should be beefed up to handle heavier ground tackle; however, this does not necessarily require a wooden bowsprit, which will simply add to your maintenance chores.

Nonetheless, if you insist on having a bowsprit, the issue you will face is making sure there is sufficient horizontal distance from wherever you intend to place the windlass to accommodate the length of the anchor shank for your chosen anchor and still have the anchor snug up on the bow roller. Note, however, that this can be handled with a stainless steel construction rather than a wooden one. While you are at it, I would recommend a Rocna or Manson-style anchor which, if it has the ring over the flukes, may require a carefully-designed bow fitting to stow properly. Aside from this, for a bluewater cruiser I would focus on the electrical system (the original wiring will be inadequate for today’s liveaboard expectations), the engine (unless the original Atomic 4 gas engine has already been replaced with a diesel), the fuel tank (the original was aluminum and may have corrosion issues) and the rigging. The cored deck on a boat of this age will also need close inspection for potential water intrusion and delamination, especially around the fastenings for the handrails.