Forward Thrust CAPT. DAVE LEAR
DIY steps to keep your outboard running smoothly.
EE Servicing today’s digital, fuel-injected outboards requires factory-software diagnostics and specialized training. But with just a few hand tools, basic parts and supplies, and a little elbow grease, you can keep yours running smoothly and performing efficiently between scheduled visits to the shop.
Replace Oil and Filters
“Changing the engine oil and fuel filter are the two main things you need to do to keep four-stroke outboards running a long time,” says Rob Haines, certified Master Yamaha technician and owner of Blue Water Boats in Cape May, New Jersey. A strap wrench is a handy tool to
own for removing filters in tight spaces, and Haines recommends using the manufacturer’s lubricants and filters. “I’ve run into a lot of problems with after-market filters,” he explains.
“A 10-micron filter sells for less than $20, so it never hurts to buy a spare, coat the metal with a corrosion spray, put it in a Ziploc bag, and keep it on board,” adds James Curry, an independent factory-trained technician for Mercury, Evinrude, Suzuki and Yamaha based near Homosassa, Florida. “A fuel/water filter screws on, so it’s easy to change, even on the water.” Curry prefers the standard canister spin-on filters without the plastic see-through bowl. “If you can see that much water in the bowl, you’ve got other problems,” he says.
Flush Away Salt
Haines says outboards should be flushed with fresh water after every trip in salt or brackish water. A quickdisconnect setup makes this task easier. After tying up in the slip or loading the boat on the trailer, tilt the outboard and connect to a freshwater hose. Then turn the water on, start the engine and let it idle for at least 15 minutes to flush the salt deposits from internal components. You can unload your gear while the engine is flushing.
Prevent Corrosion
Curry strongly believes in corrosion prevention treatment. Not only does it prolong the life of the motor, but it also makes it easier to work on it, which saves on labor costs. He recommends using treatments like Corrosion X to coat metallic parts, and adding dielectric grease — “a little dab goes a long way” — to spark-plug boots to avoid future problems.
Close Inspection
At least annually (or before the next season), carefully inspect fuel hoses and primer bulbs. Look for cracking, hardening of the rubber, or residue. Boats stored out in direct sunlight are even more susceptible to damage due to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet rays. Replacing hoses or bulbs is easy and inexpensive, and good insurance against problems on the water.
Treat It Right
“I recommend adding products like Yamaha Ring-free or Mercury Power Tune periodically to your boat’s fuel system,” Curry says. “The price may seem a little high, but they do exactly what they’re supposed to do: clean your engine. I’ve worked on outboards that were treated, and they had zero carbon buildup on the rings and valves. They really do work.”
Prop Pull
“At least once a year, or whenever you suspect something may have wrapped around it, pull the propeller,” Haines suggests. “Check behind the thrust washer for any fishing line or other debris that can damage the seal and let water seep into the lower unit and corrupt the gear-case oil. Grease the spline thoroughly with a waterproof grease, and replace the assembly to keep it from corroding and make the next removal easier.”
Make It Shine
As with the hull, a generous application of marine wax on the engine cowling and lower unit will protect against fading and cut down on cleanup time. Wax also enhances aesthetics, as well as future resale value.
Keeping an outboard in top running condition doesn’t always require a laptop computer. Performing simple maintenance routinely helps ensure your motor is always ready to take you fishing, extending its life and saving you money in the process.
Boats stored in direct sunlight are more susceptible to damage by ultraviolet rays.