5 places to get enchiladas that comfort

Blanco’s had more than 45 years to get it right. And it’s right on.

Jacala Mexican Restaurant

When this 1949 Tex-Mex standard-bearer came on the real estate market a few weeks ago, the regulars panicked, a staffer told me. For now, everything’s staying the same, or as close to the same as COVID-19 will allow. Disposable menus, disposable tablecloths, disposable paper salsa boats.

What’s indisposable are enchiladas draped in rich chili gravy with a blanket of melted cheese, finished in the broiler to create enchilada alchemy. During lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, two enchiladas with rice, beans, flour tortillas, iced tea and one of the city’s best puffy tacos costs just $8.99.

Tlahco Mexican Kitchen

Tlahco hit the ground running in September as one of the city’s best Mexican restaurants. Even in the turmoil since then, it’s found a balance between Mexican and Tex-Mex with cheese enchiladas both unexpected and familiar.

A terra cotta plate of enchiladas rojas ($9) starts with the high-gloss melt of Oaxaca cheese, then finishes with warm red salsa and fried potatoes. For something more intriguing, try enmoladas ($9), rolled corn tortillas filled with queso fresco in a cloak of dark mole both smoky and sweet.

Los Barrios Mexican Restaurant

Los Barrios knows how to take care of its fans. The abbreviated menu doesn’t mention its celebrated enchilada variety plate. But they’ll make it for you anyway, starting with a classic Tex-Mex cheese enchilada in chili gravy, then rotating through a wagon wheel of enchiladas with tangy verde sauce, smoky mole poblano, sweet ranchera sauce and roasted red pepper sauce ($16.49).

In the little mercado up front, pick up a flashy Mexican embroidery face mask for $10. msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking | Instagram: @fedmanwalking

At longtime favorite Blanco Cafe, the cheese enchilada plate is not fancy, just deliciously familiar.

Jacala Mexican Restaurant’s enchiladas, smothered in gravy and cheese, are finished in the broiler.

The gooey cheese enchiladas at Mexican Manhattan are cravable, boilerplate Tex-Mex.