Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro

in a crust with a 2-inch collar acting like the edges of a casserole pan. Those edges held back a reservoir of tangy marinara sauce to create a slice of pizza that was part lasagna, part Italian hoagie, part stromboli and all delicious.

A medium pie costs $20. Bring friends.

Other pizzas: With a crust like an air-puffed saltine, the Old World Classic Pepperoni ($23 for a large pie) behaved like a crackly, foldable New York street slice. But the pools of sliced mozzarella suggested something more, bringing an air of craft to glossy pepperoni and sharp tomato sauce.

If I were California, I’d get tired of my food being defined by avocados and sprouts and

Rating: Solid neighborhood

option

Location: 19141 Stone Oak Parkway, Suite 113, 210-404-1818,

trilogypizza.com

Hours: 4-9 p.m. TuesdayWednesday; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

Sunday Takeout/delivery: Both, with delivery through Grubhub, DoorDash and other services. The dining room is open at 50 percent

capacity.

whole-wheat everything. But that’s how it is, and Trilogy plays along with a California-style whole-wheat crust that takes half the fun out of pizza by making it more like just sauce and cheese on bread. Trilogy lets you pick any crust for any of its pies, but the Pesto Chicken seemed best suited for the California treatment, with chicken, mozzarella, garlic and tomatoes finished with twangy herb pesto ($14 for a small pie).

There’s a fourth option for crust at Trilogy, one that few shops even offer, much less do well. It’s a gluten-free version made with cauliflower, and while it was neither chewy nor flaky nor magically toasty like a full-bodied pizza crust, it delivered at least the phantom sensation of those qualities to people with gluten sensitivities. It’s $4 extra, available only for small pizzas, and it bore up well under a simple margherita dress of sliced mozzarella, tomatoes, marinara and fresh handfuls of basil ($17.50 for a small pie).

Trilogy Pizza & Wine Bistro’s Chicago-style deep-dish pizza options include the Capone, with mozzarella, Italian sausage, pepperoni, black olives, mushrooms and red onions.

Trilogy offers, clockwise from left, the Old World Classic Pepperoni on a New York-style thin crust, Pesto Chicken on a California-style wheat crust and a margherita pizza on a gluten-free cauliflower crust.