Terrific tortas take center stage

But tacos shine in their supporting role Monky’s Tortas

Growing up in Mexico City, Edgar Sanchez’s family ran a little sandwich joint. They called it Monky’s Tortas, drawing on his dad’s playful nickname.

So when the time came for Sanchez and his wife, Bernice Morales, to open their own sandwich business in San Antonio, he went straight to his roots.

“I know tortas,” he said. “So I wanted to bring tortas back and see people enjoy them the way I make them.”

The family launched its Monky’s Tortas trailer three months ago. Between the challenges of the pandemic and February’s snowstorm, the introduction to food-trailer life has been surprising.

“Before I started, I thought it would be really easy,” Sanchez said. “But it’s something new every day. It’s the challenge of keeping things working.”

Sanchez stays centered, though, thanks to his family pitching in to prep and take orders, along with his eight years of experience rising through the kitchen ranks at Wildfish, now Eddie V’s. The result is a menu of well-executed tortas on toasty telera bread baked by a friend from Mexico City.

Best dish: The Cubana ($12) at Monky’s is what happens if someone dared you to see how much you could pile on one sandwich without it collapsing under its own weight. Ham, pulled pork, bacon, frankfurters, chorizo, salami — it’s all there, plus lettuce, tomatoes and avocado.

But somehow the center holds, and all the salt, fat and smoke combine for a sandwich hearty enough to feed two. And like all the tortas at Monky’s, the price includes a side of hot, crispy fries.

Other dishes: The Monky’s torta ($12) tones things down, trading the free-for-all of the

Rating: Solid neighborhood

option Location/hours: Noon to 9 p.m. most Saturdays and Sundays at The Point Park, 24188 Boerne Stage Road. Other locations, days and hours vary; check Facebook for schedule: @monkys.torta; 210-818-8421

Takeout/delivery: Yes/no

Cubana for a more tailored approach. Strips of grilled steak lay a firm, understated foundation, while salami and chorizo add just enough salt and attitude.

For the more single-minded torta fan, the Milanesa ($10) draws its power from beef that’s been pounded out flat, salted, breaded and fried just shy of crispy, a lighter version of a chicken-fried steak, more suited to the sandwich life. A grilled chicken torta ($9) takes it a step lighter still, with the thin meat and payload of lettuce, tomato and mayo interacting like a salad between bread.

Tortas are the main draw, but Monky’s expresses its Mexico City roots with righteous street tacos on doubled-up corn tortillas softened on the grill and piled with bistec and chorizo, then dressed with melted cheese, cilantro, onions and limes (five for $8.50).

Photos by Mike Sutter / Staff Piled with ham, frankfurters, bacon, cheese, avocado, salami, pork leg and chorizo, the Cubana torta is a hearty feast. Plus, it’s served with fries.

The Milanesa torta is beef pounded flat, breaded and fried — think of it as a light version of a chicken-fried steak sandwich.