Giving green tomatoes their due

Blame it on Fannie Flagg. The author’s 1987 novel “Fried Green Tomatoes at the Whistle Stop Cafe” and the subsequent movie version meant most of us will only think of green tomatoes as a thing you bread, fry and slather with a creamy sauce.

But those of us who set out plants after February’s deep freeze are seeing green tomatoes — firm, tart, unripe tomatoes that haven’t fully matured — appearing on vines in San Antonio. And they are good for so much more than simply tossing in a skillet of hot oil.

Salads: If your palate steers more toward sour than sweet, don’t hesitate to use green tomatoes in salads in the same way as ripe tomatoes. In addition to the bright acidic flavor, you’ll get more crunch out of each bite. Diced green tomatoes can also balance out sweeter ingredients in a fruit salad such as our Cantaloupe and Green Tomato Salad.

Baking: If you love tomato pie, feel free to use green tomatoes instead of ripe ones and proceed as directed with your favorite recipe. You can also substitute them for some or all of the zucchini in zucchini bread. Heck, they even have a place in sweet desserts, as demonstrated in our Green Tomato Cake topped with cream cheese frosting.

Pickles: While ripe tomatoes are generally too soft to pickle, green tomatoes are perfect for the job. Quick pickles that you store in the refrigerator instead of processing in a hot water bath will keep even more of that texture intact. We’ve provided a basic recipe to get you started; it can be customized with additional ingredients as desired.

Salsas: The firm texture and tart flavor of green tomatoes shines in fresh salsas. Try subbing them for some or all the ripe tomatoes in your next batch of pico de gallo. And there’s an added benefit here as they retain moisture better than ripe tomatoes and won’t water down your salsa.

Frittata: These eggy brunch delights are one of the best ways to use up nearly any kind of veggie, and that includes green tomatoes. Just dice them up and toss them in the skillet along with all the other goodies.

Soups and stews: So many classic Mexican soups and stews begin with blending roasted or simmered tomatillos, and you can use green tomatoes in exactly the same way for a slightly different flavor. Substitute them in the same quantity as the tomatillos called for in the recipe, and you will get a slightly more gentle, less acidic soup or stew.

Craig Lee / Special to the San Francisco Chronicle Green tomatoes are delicious prepared in surprising ways.