San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
6 spots that offer fresh takes on restorative barbacoa
ooey, gooey sandwich highlighting classic Mexican flavors served in a modern coffee shop.
3735 Culebra Road, 210-5195403, barriobarista.coffee, Facebook: @barriobarista
Barbacoa pho at Suck It: The Restaurant: More than 9,000 miles and the entire Pacific Ocean separate Mexico from Vietnam, but you wouldn’t know it when you order the barbacoa pho at this spot in the Medical Center. This dish spotlights two diverse cultures by teaming up their best hangover cures to create something truly spectacular.
When the bowl hits your table, you’re hit with the restorative fragrances of cilantro, red onion, scallion and, naturally, oodles of beef from the heap of barbacoa floating on top.
And you can wash the whole thing down with a Big Red bubble tea. If there’s one dish in San Antonio that truly celebrates the global power of barbacoa, this is it.
7220 Louis Pasteur Drive, Suite 125, 210-560-2113, chefsuckit.com, Facebook: @SuckItTheRestaurant
Barbacoa Stroganoff at The Hayden: The classic Eastern European dish beef stroganoff already has all the hallmarks of hangover food: egg noodles in a mild, creamy sauce spiked with tender, braised chunks of beef. But a modern San Antonio classic was born at this Jewish deliinspired Midtown restaurant when owner Adam Lampinstein’s wife, Perla, a Mexico native, suggested swapping the usual cubes of beef with barbacoa.
A sour cream-based sauce is accented with braising liquid from the barbacoa for an extra deep, savory flavor punctuated
with peas and mushrooms. The finishing tough is a tangle of fresh dill on top, making this a highly fragrant dish that feels like two worlds colliding in the
best possible way.
4025 Broadway, 210-437-4306, thehaydensa.com, Facebook: @thehaydensa
Monster Hangover Dog at RockerDogz Gourmet Street Dogz: Weiner whisperer Kris Martinez has been in the trickedout hot dog game for more than a decade, whipping up franks inspired by every corner of the globe in this South Side spot. But it’s his tribute to San Antonio that belongs on the plate after a long night.
This all-beef hot dog is topped with a mound of barbacoa, onions, cilantro and guacamole. And because Martinez knows how things are done here, he finishes that with a cheffy Big Red reduction. Unfortunately, this won’t be an option Thursday — the day after Cinco de Mayo — as Martinez only serves the Monster Hangover Dog on Sundays — and he won’t promise it’ll be available every Sunday at that — so be sure to follow RockerDogz on Facebook for announcements.
3014 Roosevelt Ave., 210-2777288, Facebook: @RockerDogz
San Anto pizza at Deco Pizzeria: Jacob Valenzuela has been tampering with barbacoa tradition longer than most. The Deco Pizzeria owner decided to launch a brunch menu about a decade ago, and one of the first features on that Sunday menu was the aptly named San Anto pizza.
This pie has far more Mexico in its DNA than Italy: refried beans, cheese, avocado, fresh pico de gallo and, naturally, plenty of beefy barbacoa. The effect is more like a big, puffy tostada than pizza, and when it comes to curing hangovers, you couldn’t ask for better , even if you have to wait until Sunday to have it.
Three locations: 1815 Fredericksburg Road, 210-732-3326;
2026 Babcock Road, Suite 107, 210-996-3326; 1401 S. New Braunfels Ave., 210-455-6012; decopizza. com, Facebook: @decopizzeria1