San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
Look out — there’s a new concha burger in town
San Antonio’s most colorful burger may also be its most perfectly cooked. And the best part: It gets delivered directly to your door.
Chef Adrian Cruz launched Ghost Kitchens SA in January and, until recently, has been preparing menus from nationwide “virtual restaurant” concepts, such as Outlaw Burger, Firebelly Wings and CraveBurger, for delivery across the city.
Cruz has just rolled out his first original menu through
Ghost Kitchens SA under the same name, and the unquestionable star of the show is a huge, juicy burger on a psychedelically colorful concha.
For all it’s flashy good looks, this burger is so much more than the Technicolor pan dulce it’s tucked into.
Cruz goes into full-on chef mode with this thing, first gently cooking the hulking, roughly half-pound beef and chorizo patty vacuum-packed in a sous vide water bath. He finishes the burger with a quick sear on a griddle, resulting in a gorgeous rosy interior — I can’t remember coming across a more perfect medium doneness in a burger — with a savory caramelized char on the outside.
If that wasn’t enough to seal the deal, Cruz then dresses the patty with thick strips of bacon, gooey cheddar cheese, pickled onions, dill slices and his unique take on Special Sauce: a mayonnaise tricked out with chipotle and strawberry.
There’s a lot of flavor happening here, and the burger is definitely sweeter than most, thanks to both the sauce and concha, but Cruz manages to wrangle all that salt, sugar, fat and tang into a balanced bite that lights up every taste bud.
While the concha burger is clearly Cruz’s signature dish — he won the James Beard Foundation’s Blended Burger Project in 2016 with a similar concha burger that incorporated shiitake mushrooms into the patty — his new menu offers plenty of other hits.
I sampled perfectly cooked chicken wings blackened with a crust of coffee; indulgent sweet potato tots loaded with sour cream, bacon, green onions and cheese; and a cup of tender mac and cheese studded with juicy chunks of smoked brisket doused in a zippy barbecue sauce.
It was all craveable, rib-sticking goodness that blends classic comfort-food flavors with cheffy ambition.
Ghost Kitchens SA, ghostkitchensa.com, Facebook: @GhostkitchensSA. Hours: Orders may be placed online 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily with delivery available through Doordash, Uber Eats and Grubhub apps. Doordash also offers a pickup option; 2015 NE Loop 410.