San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
5 places to go when kolaches call.
Sweet, savory, traditional, inventive: 5 places for great pastries
In South Texas, kolaches come in all shapes, sizes and flavors.
Of course, only some of what we call “kolaches” are exactly that — a tender pastry stuffed with fruit, jam or other sweet ingredients, a recipe hailing from Central Europe that came to the United States with Moravian immigrants. The sausage-filled rolls frequently sold here as kolaches are, technically speaking, better described as klobasneks. Their roots, unlike kolaches, are decidedly Texan, first being made by Czech settlers in the Lone Star State.
And, oh, how they’ve evolved over the years. These days in San Antonio you can find kolaches (and klobasneks) filled with carne guisada, migas, jalapeños and countless other ingredients more common to Mexican food traditions.
However you like them — be it a traditional sweet pastry similar to a jelly doughnut or a savory, meat-filled roll — there is no shortage of places to find spectacular kolaches in the area. Here’s a look at five such purveyors worth a visit the next time your appetite strikes.
Bexar Kolaches: This newcomer to the kolache scene opened a tiny Olmos Park shop in early 2021 with a lineup of pastries sure to please. Yes, you can find traditional kolaches filled with poppy seeds and fruity jams, but that’s only the beginning. Mango and chamoy fill one, or you might opt for a raspa-inspired kolache topped with pineapple, pickles and a sprinkling of KoolAid. On the savory side, look for petite kolaches stuffed with sausage, cheese and jalapeños or eggy migas laced with bits of tortilla.
205 E. Hildebrand Ave., 361-8788355, bexarkolaches.com, Facebook: @bexarkolaches
Kolache Factory: This Houston-based chain has a Texas history dating back to 1982. You’ll find unusual offerings on tap here. In addition to fruit and sausage, these kolaches get stuffed pizzastyle with pepperoni and cheese, or beef and peppers like a Philly cheesesteak sandwich. Barbecued brisket, creamed spinach,
chicken enchilada and other flavors fill out a robust menu of inventive and playful kolaches.
11018 Culebra Road, Suite 106, 210-509-9400, kolachefactory. com, Facebook: @kolachefactory
Kolache Stop: This San Antonio-born business was the city’s first bakery focused specifically on kolaches and has been keeping bellies filled since 2010. Its traditional kolaches — both fruitand sausage-stuffed — are a sure hit, starting with a terrific bread dough that’s tender, sweet and irresistible. The fillings can range widely, as well, including meatballs, green chile-laced chicken, pulled pork and others.
11703 Huebner Road, Suite 200, 210-558-3900, kolachestop.com, Facebook: Kolache Stop
Love Kolaches: If you’re in Boerne, don’t miss out on the exceptional kolaches from chef Denise Mazal of Little Gretel fame, who sells pastries out of her celebrated restaurant. These kolaches are large and generously stuffed with both fruity fillings or sausage, but the best part may be the bread. It’s remarkably tender with a hint of sweetness and bit of salt perfect for balancing the big flavor of the fillings.
518 River Road in Boerne, 830331-1368, lovekolaches.com
Swine House: Kolaches come in one variety from this wholeanimal butcher shop — stuffed with carne guisada. And you will only find them on weekends at the Pearl Farmers Market. These kolaches — a partnership between Swine House founder Joe Saenz and noted San Antonio baker
Jenn Reisman, whose pastries can be found at the Silo family of restaurants — came about as a way to use cuts of meat better suited for stewing into rich carne guisada than grinding into sausage. They’re huge, indulgent flavor bombs that will satisfy even the biggest appetite.