Keep corn on the cob in the sweet spot

Sweet corn season has arrived in Texas, and we should keep seeing those golden ears of goodness as late as November, depending on where in the state they’re grown.

But making the most of that harvest means understanding what happens to corn once it’s plucked from the plant — which is exactly what we’re getting into this week.

The first thing to know about sweet corn is that it only stays that way — full of flavorful sugars — for a few days after it’s picked. Unlike many forms of produce that slowly convert starches to sugar as they ripen after picking — think bananas, pears, kiwis, mangoes and others that continue to ripen on the counter — sweet corn works in reverse, going from blissfully sweet to bland and mealy quicker than most of us realize.

There’s a reason many corn growers prefer to eat their ears the day they’re picked: It only takes a few days for an ear of corn picked at peak ripeness to start getting starchy. Within a week or two, much of the corn’s sweetness has vanished into the ether as the kernels slowly dry into dense and grainy semblances of their former selves.

Fortunately, you can help preserve some of those sugars.

For starters, stop shucking ears of corn in the store. The husks and silks help retain their flavor and moisture. If you’re bringing home bags of storeshucked corn to sit in the fridge for more than a day or two, you’re losing all that natural protection.

Don’t worry: If you’re a compulsive corn-peeker and have to peel back a few husks to see if the kernels are plump and golden, go for it. No harm done. Just leave the husks intact and make your purchase.

The second step is to preserve as much hydration within the kernels as possible. Plastic bags are your friend here. Snugly wrap unhusked cobs in a plastic bag. Grocery bags from the store will work fine. You don’t need to whip out the pricey zipper-top sacks here. Store the bagged corn in your refrigerator for a maximum of three days.

If your schedule won’t allow for cooking it sooner than that, the freezer is your friend. You can freeze whole, shucked cobs in sealable bags, or cut the kernels from the ears and freeze those in zipper-top bags or plastic tubs.

Just try to minimize the amount of air in the container with the corn. That will help prevent moisture loss through freezer burn.

As for cooking those perfectly golden ears of sweet corn, there’s a clear way to do that and maintain as much flavor as possible.

Yes, boiling shucked ears works fine, as does roasting shucked ears in the oven.

But the hands-down winner will always grilling ears of corn in their husks, either over charcoal or gas at a medium heat, for about 20 minutes with plenty of turning to get a nice, even char. The husks and silks will protect the corn from burning and trap moisture inside, resulting in perfectly steamed and smoky rows of kernels nobody can resist.

Butter and salt completely optional.

John Kernick / Everyday Food Gill whole ears of sweet corn with the husks on for about 20 minutes over medium heat. That will protect the corn from burning and keep it moist.