Happy to lose the Man vs Fries challenge

Nobody wants to back down from a challenge, especially when fries are involved.

That’s the arrangement when ordering from Man vs Fries — a rapidly expanding delivery- and pickup-only chain that recently set up shop in San Antonio: You’ll be so overwhelmed by french fries loaded with meat, cheese, guacamole and other toppings that the notion of finishing them is laughable.

I recently picked up the Man vs Fries gauntlet and fell firmly into camp fail, with leftovers sure to last at least a couple of days. Although, to be fair and give a little credit to my robust appetite, I tried the NorCal and SoCal Asada Fries ($16.95 each) at the same time. It was a fool’s errand, but one I’m glad to have undertaken and to which I’ll likely succumb again.

The former were lovable and heavily seasoned curly fries topped with tender slivers of steak, guacamole, sour cream

and “secret sauce,” a creamy and tangy drizzle of savory flavor doused over the order.

I requested the latter with well-seasoned traditional straight-cut fries topped with similar steak, guacamole and oodles of crushed Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, accompanied by cheese, sour cream and a more reserved splash of secret sauce.

For making what is essentially over-the-top junk food best preceded by a long night of adult libations, Man vs Fries delivers a surprisingly balanced and flavorful

amalgamation of carbs, protein, and enough fat and salt to stall a thoroughbred’s heart in the best possible way, regardless if your loyalties lie with Northern California, Southern California or anywhere else. (Sorry, Texas, they don’t acknowledge the Lone Star State’s ownership of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.)

Man vs Fries, a Californiabased chain launched in 2018 by french fry enthusiast William Bonhorst, also sells burritos (loaded with fries, of course), quesadillas, nachos, desserts

and more at multiple locations across the country.

It has two locations in San Antonio, with delivery options available through Uber Eats, Grubhub and Doordash.

Man vs Fries, 11911 Crosswinds Way and 14732 Bulverde Road, manvsfries.com, Facebook: @manvsfries. Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. daily

Paul Stephen / Staff Heavily seasoned NorCal Asada Fries, left, are topped with steak, guacamole, sour cream and “secret sauce.” The SorCal has similar toppings, plus Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.