San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
At Web House Café rustle up some ribs with Russian flair
The city’s best deal on a barbecue plate is at Web House Café & Bar in Beacon Hill every Sunday.
Follow the siren smell of smoked meat to this small pubgrub spot where Texas meets Eastern Europe for a platter overflowing with three pork ribs, two chicken leg quarters, a link of sausage and two sides for just $15.
The meaty portion of the plate rung true to Texas tradition. The ribs had a dark, lacquered finish almost akin to burnt ends that gave way to tender and succulent pork underneath. The chicken leg quarters sporting gorgeously bronzed skin and plenty of juicy and the snappy sausage was bursting with savory goodness.
Instead of the typical potato salad or mac and cheese, my mountain of smoked meat was paired with two Eastern European comfort classics. The first of those sides was a scoop of fluffy buckwheat mixed with grilled onions — a traditional way of serving buckwheat in Web
House owner Mischka Timofeyev’s native Russia. The preparation is deeply savory with a pleasing nutty taste and aroma.
The second side was a generous mound of sauerkraut studded with smoky bacon. The bright acidic tang of the kraut provided a perfect counter punch to the smoky meat much in the way every Texan craves pickles with their brisket.
Web House serves plenty of bar grub standards such as chicken wings, fried mushrooms and burgers, but the menu also features many Russian staples including borscht, schnitzel, the pierogilike dumplings pelmeni and vareniki, and more. It’s some of the most interesting and unique bar food you’ll find anywhere in the city.
Web House Café & Bar, 320 Blanco Road, 210-531-0100, webhousecafe.com, Facebook: @Web.House.SATX.