Dishes with a Louisiana accent

Zesty gumbo, fish po’boy are Cajun triumphs

For those looking for a taste of Louisiana flavor, you can’t go wrong with Sauce’s Southern Kitchen Cajun & Creole Cuisine, a truck from chef and owner Keyon Noel that has traversed San Antonio for the past two years.

I’m not exactly sure what the “certified Creole” endorsement is on the side of the truck, but I can certify that eating here is a true Louisiana experience. Noel is from Lafayette, La., and offers a menu that features sandwiches, gumbo and chicken wings that don’t disappoint.

Best dish: Noel is making one of the best gumbos in the city. At $7 a cup — and worth the additional $2 for shrimp — it’s loaded with slivers of chopped sausage and a generous portion of shrimp bathing in a roux darker than bayou water. It was love at first bite, with a zestiness that didn’t go over the edge with spice.

The short review from my 14-year old daughter, Isabelle: “That’s good eatin.’ ”

Other dishes: The catfish po’boy ($8) was another strong contender for top honors. The

fish came well breaded and devoid of its usual swampy funk for a clean, crispy bite brightened by chopped lettuce and pickles on a crispy hoagie roll.

The Cajun fries ($4, $3 as part of a combo) were well seasoned and served extra crispy, a fine complement to anything on the menu.

Noel said he is struggling to get chicken wings because of the supply shortages, but for now you can get three full wings Cajun-style for $9. With just enough heat, they were a fun change from the usual flats and drummettes.

Things went slightly off course with a boudin sausage link ($6),

which is a classic Louisiana mixture of pork and rice. The casing didn’t have a hard snap to it, and the meat inside was mushy and bland, and it looked overly sad.

Red beans and rice, a Louisiana staple, was not on the menu during my visit, but Noel said it usually is. Maybe next time. Because if you are in the neighborhood and want some Cajun flavor, Sauce’s will hit the spot.

Photos by Chuck Blount / Staff The gumbo with shrimp and loads of sausage slivers is among best in the city.

The well-breaded, cleantasting and crispy catfish makes for a fine po’boy.