CHILLED WATERMELON SOUP

This simple, refreshing gazpacholike chilled soup depends on the sweetness of the watermelon — tempered by the addition of olive oil, vinegar, lime juice and salt — to create the perfect balance of flavors. A little spiciness in the form of cayenne or crushed red pepper is welcome, too, as is an extra squeeze of lime juice at the table.

7 cups diced watermelon, cut into 1-inch cubes

Kosher salt and black pepper Pinch of ground cayenne 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar

4 tablespoons fresh lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving

2 cups diced honeydew melon or cantaloupe, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 cups diced cucumber, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive (optional)

Pinch of flaky salt, such as Maldon or fleur de sel (optional)

Instructions: Put 5 cups of diced watermelon in a food processor or blender, and blitz to a puree. Strain puree through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. You should have about 4 cups puree. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne, 1 tablespoon vinegar and 2 tablespoons lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning. Chill bowl on ice or refrigerate.

To serve, place remaining diced watermelon, honeydew melon and cucumber in a small mixing bowl. Toss with a little salt and pepper, 2 tablespoons lime juice and the olive oil. Divide mixture evenly into chilled soup bowls.

Ladle watermelon puree into each bowl. Sprinkle with chives, basil and mint. Add a sprinkle of red-pepper flakes and/or flaky salt, if desired. Pass lime wedges separately.

Makes 4-6 servings

David Tanis, New York Times

John Karsten Moran/New York Times oil 2 tablespoons snipped chives Handful of small basil leaves Handful of small mint leaves Pinch of red-pepper flakes