San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
ST. PAUL SQUARE THE NEWEST ‘PLAYGROUND FOR LOCALS’
High-end restaurants, flashy cocktail bars light up the neighborhood near downtown
When it comes to San Antonio’s food and beverage scene, all eyes have been on the Pearl and Southtown for most of the past decade. But there’s a new contender in town, and it’s one that’s always been here.
The near East Side neighborhood of St. Paul Square has seen a half-dozen restaurants, bars and clubs open in the past year or so, bringing an energy and vitality to a part of town that sat largely idle for decades. Spearheaded by developer David Adelman and business partners Michael Jersin and Don Thomas, who own many of the buildings in St. Paul Square, the booming district feels alive and inviting for both locals and tourists.
Historically anchored by St. Paul Methodist Episcopal Church and the Southern Pacific Railroad Station, St. Paul Square long served as the heart of San Antonio’s Black business community. The area fell into decline in the 1960s and ’70s with increased automobile traffic and the construction of Interstate 37, which cut off the neighborhood from downtown.
The Alamodome, which opened in 1993, was seen as a potential spark for revitalization in St. Paul Square, but that dream was never quite realized. Nearly 30 more years would pass before its main thoroughfare of East Commerce Street regained its mojo.
These days, St. Paul Square is home to a wide diversity of businesses, including several entertainment venues, restaurants and bars representing the cuisine of nearly every corner of the globe.
“You can’t describe St. Paul Square and what it offers in one phrase. You can have tapas, ramen, high-end cocktails, catch a house show in a smaller coffee shop or visit a 3,100-person amphitheater that’s hosted several historic artists,” St. Paul Square property manager Sophie Larkin said. “Whatever you’re looking for, St. Paul Square offers it in a welcoming and familiar manner. It’s a playground for locals.”
To help you better understand this district that’s simultaneously deeply rooted in history and looking forward to a modern and vibrant downtown, follow our guide to a dozen establishments that have a finger on the pulse of today’s St. Paul Square.
1902 Nightclub
The throbbing bass, Ferraris parked outside and occasional celebrity sightings make this spot inside the historic Sunset Station rail depot the place to be and be seen every Friday and Saturday night. The laser lighting, loud music and throng of gyrating bodies will be the first thing you notice, but take a moment to look around at the structure itself. This painstakingly preserved building boasts a 64-by-28foot arched ceiling, handcarved wood molding, stained-glass windows and other details from a bygone era of grandeur.
1902 Nightclub, 1174 E. Commerce St., 210-941-3010, 1902satx.com
Alibis Sports & Spirits
This neighborhood bar inside a converted house is the Cheers of St. Paul Square. It was established in 2000, well before many of its neighbors
in the area. The regular clientele of locals gather for the elevated dive bar atmosphere and affordable drinks after games and concerts at the nearby Alamodome. The bar offers an impressive selection of tequila, bourbon and beers, but don’t come looking for fussy cocktails. This is a spot to kick back, relax and enjoy a cold one with friends and family.
Alibis Sports & Spirits, 1141 E. Commerce St., 210-225-5552, Instagram: @alibissportsandspirits
Anne’s Wine Bar
One of three projects to open this year inside a single building, Anne’s is the first wine bar from the well-established operator Steve Mahoney. The bar primarily stocks Old World European wines, but does provide other offerings from around the globe. Anne’s provides a relaxed and relatively quiet respite from the bustling nightlife along East Commerce Street, and the stylish neon-pink interior and eclectic artwork make this an ideal date-night destination.
Anne’s Wine Bar, 1170 E. Commerce St., 210-274-2977, francisbogside.com
Blayne’s
Blayne’s is a modern honkytonk named in honor of longtime San Antonio music promoter and bar owner Blayne Tucker, who died in December. Occupying the floor above Francis Bogside, the bar features several pool tables and a stage that regularly hosts live bands. Blayne’s has a full bar with a wide range of libations. The kitchen serves a menu of Tex-Mex-inspired fare with a global flair, including dishes such as red curry short rib mini tacos, Southwest egg rolls and smoked barbacoa pizza.
Blayne’s, 1170 E. Commerce St., 210-314-2994, francisbogside.com
Cellar Mixology
This bar is located in the basement space below Toro Kitchen + Bar. Expect the unexpected here. Cellar offers a wide range of cocktails inspired by the molecular gastronomy movement, including several types of “drinks” encapsulated in a spherification process resulting in little pods of tasty booze served on a spoon. The menu, which is really more of a coffeetable book, goes into great detail about spirits, glassware and cocktail lore, as well as offering a wide range of inventive drinks. The Fairy Tale is a particular delight, made with rosé wine, edible glitter and a rose-shaped ice cube.
Cellar Mixology, 1142 E. Commerce St., (no phone), cellarmixology.com
Cuishe Cocina Mexicana
This restaurant is a St. Paul Square outpost of the original Cuishe in Stone Oak, which recently earned accolades as one of the Top 25 Mexican restaurants in San Antonio by Express-News dining critic Mike Sutter. Owned by the team behind Toro Kitchen + Bar and helmed by noted chef Juan Carlos Bazan, Cuishe specializes in less-common yet traditional Mexican dishes, such as rajas con crema and lengua guisada. The bar also offers one of the best happy hour deals in St. Paul Square, with its remarkable selection of rare and unique tequilas and mezcals available at half price.
Cuishe Cocina Mexicana, 119 Heiman St., 210-960-8935, cuishemx.com
Francis Bogside
This popular Irish pub made the move from Southtown to St. Paul Square in May and was the first of Mahoney’s three concepts (along with Anne’s Wine Bar and Blayne’s) to open inside the property at 1170 E. Commerce St. The space is well-appointed with leather, dark wood and other trappings of a classic Irish pub, and offers several semiprivate seating areas in addition to stools at the huge bar that dominates the center of the room. In addition to a full bar with plenty of wine, beer and cocktail options, the kitchen at Francis Bogside serves burgers, pasta and pizzas daily, and prime rib for brunch on Sundays.
Francis Bogside, 1170 E. Commerce St., 210-314-2994, francisbogside.com
Lilly’s Greenville
Lilly’s was the first of Mahoney’s St. Paul Square projects to open, making its debut in 2019. The bar offers a relaxed vibe, accessible drinks and perfect access to the sprawling patio space in the heart of St. Paul Square. You’ll find great buys on beverages here with all-day happy hour deals on Sunday and Monday, as well as from 4-8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Expect regular themed events and games, live DJ sets and other entertainment at this chill hot spot.
Lilly’s Greenville, 1160 E. Commerce St., 210-375-5075, lillysgreenville.com
The Rendezvous @ Aiden
The bar on the ground level of the boutique hotel Aiden by Best Western San Antonio River Walk opened in April and is a perfect place to quietly sip one of many craft cocktails offered on its menu. The lobby adjacent to the bar doubles as a coffee shop in the morning. The hotel, which offers valet parking for $20 per night, is an ideal spot to launch your exploration of St. Paul Square and downtown San Antonio, as it’s just blocks away from all the action on either side of Interstate 37.
The Rendezvous @ Aiden, 1103 E. Commerce St. inside the Aiden by Best Western San Antonio River Walk hotel, 210-223-4400, bestwestern.com
Suck It Asian Kitchen
Suck It has a long history in San Antonio, launching first as a hookah and bubble tea bar near the University of Texas at San Antonio in 2010. Owner Vinh Hoang expanded into St. Paul Square last year with a restaurant serving an elevated take on Japanese comfort food, including edamame, dumplings and hearty bowls of ramen, as well as dishes inspired by Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Suck It also has an impressive bar program, with a large menu of craft cocktails.
Suck It Asian Kitchen, 1167 E. Commerce St., 210-564-9062, chefsuckit.com
Toro Kitchen + Bar
Toro made its debut in Stone Oak in 2017, and co-founder Gerardo De Anda quickly expanded into St. Paul Square the following year. Toro specializes in Spanish cuisine, and is the city’s top spot for traditional paella, tapas and Jamón Serrano. The team behind Toro, Gusto Group USA, has made an indelible mark on the modern dining scene in St. Paul Square with three current properties there and several other projects in the works across San Antonio.
Toro Kitchen + Bar, 1142 E. Commerce St., 210-592-1075, torokitchenandbar.com
Vice Versa Coffee & Vinyl Records
The brainchild of entrepreneurs Vincent Guerrero and Jonabelle Timms, Vice Versa is many things to many people. Caffeine junkies can get their fix in one corner of the shop. Audiophiles can geek out over the large selection of vinyl records in another. And down below, in the shop’s basement, entertainment seekers can find everything from live poetry readings to highenergy rock shows or live sets from noted DJs.
Vice Versa Coffee & Vinyl Records, 123 Heiman St., 210-9770566, Facebook: Vice Versa Coffee & Vinyl Records