Frying fettuccine introduces texture

Italians know well that the texture of pasta matters greatly. Hence, the emphasis on cooking it until just barely al dente, or until tender, but with a pleasant chew.

But that’s not where the lesson stops.

In Lecce, an ancient city in southern Italy, we learned the delicious joy of mixing pasta textures — some perfectly al dente, some fried in olive oil until lightly browned, nutty and wonderfully crisp. We were at an understated eatery called Le Zie Trattoria, where chef/owner Anna Carmela Perrone cooks up glistening stacks of eggplant planks and creamy fava bean purees, among many great choices.

But the standout is her ciceri e tria, a simple tangle of broad strips of pasta paired with chickpeas. Except it isn’t all that simple. The pasta in the dish is cooked two ways: Half is fried until crisp, tan and crunchy, almost like a wonton, while the other half is simmered directly in the sauce.

In our book “Tuesday Nights Mediterranean,” which features weeknightfriendly meals from the region, we streamlined the dish into a weeknightfriendly, one-pot vegetarian meal that comes together in 35 minutes. We fry the first portion of pasta in oil until crisped, then add the chickpeas and a couple of bay leaves. The remaining pasta goes into to the pot, along with the starchy liquid from the can of chickpeas, some water and a little salt and pepper to create the sauce.

Once the second portion is softened, the crispy pasta returns to the pot, and everything simmers together until the sauce lightly clings. Lemon zest and juice, and chopped fresh parsley add brightness to balance the starches.

If you have trouble finding fresh pasta, use an 8.8ounce package of dried pappardelle made with egg; the noodles are packaged in nests that are easy to break into pieces. Keep in mind, however, that dried pappardelle toasts more quickly than fresh pasta — in about 8 minutes.

Milk Street