Alvarez’s culinary flare touched city’s Hispanics
San Antonio, and most especially the Latino community of this city, has lost an indisputable unsung hero. Leonel Alvarez, owner and chef of the iconic La Marginal Restaurant on Nacogdoches Road, fell victim in February to the novel coronavirus afflicting the world. He was 50.
The loss is particularly devastating for the more than 25,000 Puerto Ricans who make San Antonio their home away from home.
Alvarez built La Marginal into an oasis of Puerto Rican cuisine where families, friends, activeduty military and veterans, cultural groups and corporate organizations would congregate to partake of the delicious recipes he so proudly concocted. It would be hard to argue against his claim that his restaurant offered the best authentic Puerto Rican food in San Antonio. And he did so for more than 20 years.
The most remarkable aspect of Alvarez’s pre-eminence in Puerto Rican cuisine was that he was not Puerto Rican. He was a proud product of San Luis de Potosí, Mexico.
His passion for the culinary arts brought him to La Marginal, where as a cook he quickly embraced the magic of the roasted pig, the secret to flavorful pinto, kidney and garbanzo beans, and the versatility of the green plantains found in signature dishes, such as the island’s pasteles, and the mouthwatering mofongo. He became enamored with tropical dessert dishes, such as coconut flan and tembleque.
During his love affair with this gastronomic mecca, closure threatened its existence in 2000. Alvarez would have none of that and ventured into taking ownership of the restaurant.
To establish credible legitimacy with his clientele, Alvarez traveled to the island and spent several weeks immersed in the Puerto Rican culture. There, he gained a deep appreciation for the islander’s persona — a mixture of Spanish and Afro-caribbean folklore, music, art, spirituality and humanitarianism, and a love for food.
Upon returning, he transformed his venue into a masterpiece of appealing décor, highlighting the Spanish colonial architecture of Old San Juan and the tropical landscape of the island’s interior. Such art instilled festive inclusiveness among his diverse group of Hispanic patrons, who shared a common cultural heritage, while sparking curiosity and admiration among his Anglo and international frequenters.
The restaurant carved a sense of identity and belonging for the local Puerto Rican community.
Few organizations here benefited more from Alvarez’s unconditional civic engagement and immense philanthropic spirit than the Puerto Rican Heritage Society. La Marginal’s buffet lines were an ever-present feature at the organization’s popular biennial festival and many other cultural events, such as the Three Kings Day celebration at the San Fernando Cathedral’s Community Hall. Former President Luz Garcia praised Alvarez’s unsurpassed support of the organization as “a clear manifestation of his enormous kindness and unquestionable love for Puerto Rico and its people.”
Such unmistakable love emerged when it counted most — in times of tragedy. In response to the devastation caused by Hurricane Maria in 2017 and the swarm of earthquakes that struck Puerto Rico in 2019 and 2020, Alvarez was “front and center” in disaster relief fundraising efforts.
He took the lead in donating food and opening his restaurant for that exclusive purpose. Liliana Mckenzie, 2017 relief coordinator, recently wrote honoring Alvarez: “We will never forget your sincere love, servant spirit and dedication.”
Alvarez’s generosity was as diverse as the clientele he amassed. A glance at the expressions of condolences and appreciation written on social media platforms and websites shows the extent to which Alvarez made a difference in this world.
Musicians, artists, restaurant business aficionados, job-seekers and others looking for an opportunity to get a jump-start or expand their horizons found that opening with Alvarez at La Marginal. Religious organizations, athletic teams for the young and old, civic and educational entities, first responders, and principally the needy, found a niche in Alvarez’s heart.
Alvarez had a dream. He envisioned La Marginal — which remains open under the leadership of his children — as an epitome of San Antonio’s diversity, without losing its Puerto Rican identity. He planned to expand and remodel the venue to incorporate a specialized bakery shop and introduce a blend of European, American and Latin American delicacies.
His departure came years too soon. His family lost a patriarch. San Antonio lost an iconic figure. The Latino community lost a benefactor. I lost a friend.