Much to see and hear — and taste
Knoxville evolves into a foodie destination
From high atop the Sunsphere — Knoxville’s architectural wonder that was the symbol of the 1982 World’s Fair — I walk around the observation deck of the hexagonal tower, taking in the 360-degree view without getting too close to the glass panes that enclose the disco ball-like structure.
I don’t like tall buildings, but I’ve made an exception just for the panoramic scenery. I look out over downtown Knoxville, the winding turns of the Tennessee River, the towering red brick campus of the University of Tennessee and then, farthest away, the mist-cloaked peaks of the Smoky Mountains.
Most people associate Knoxville with the World’s Fair, this year celebrating its 40th anniversary with myriad events from May until October. The iconic 26-story Sunsphere, the most distinctive characteristic punctuating the city’s skyline, recently reopened as a tourist attraction.
Plenty of country music superstars started out in Knoxville, among them Dolly Parton, Kitty Wells, Bill and Charlie Monroe, Chet Atkins and Archie Campbell. But Knoxville, at a happy medium between a midsize Southern city and small mountain town, has always been more than its nickname, the Cradle of Country Music.
Something else is happening here, too. Knoxville is emerging to the forefront as a hotbed of culinary creations, a foodie destination comparable to Charleston, S.C., New Orleans and Austin. If Knoxville’s roots are in Smoky Mountains culture, country music and the world’s fair, then its future is in dining and drinking.
A mélange of restaurants, cafes, bistros, breweries and distilleries freckle downtown Knoxville, with scarcely a chain among them. Check out these local favorites:
The Drawing Room at the Tennessean Hotel: Let me kick off with appetizers and drinks. The Drawing Room, richly appointed and comfortable with huge windows for plenty of light, has myriad bourbons and whiskeys, including a range of smooth Tennessee whiskey. But there’s also a sweet selection of seasonal specialty cocktails. My pick was the Smoky Mountain Peach Margarita with housesmoked peach puree and a smoked Serrano salt rim, a cocktail that paired perfectly with the appetizers of Asian ginger-glazed smoked wings and blackened sirloin tips. Shrimp and grits are on the menu for breakfast, with specialties including maple pecancrusted salmon for dinner.
531 Henley St., Knoxville. 865232-1800. thetennesseanhotel.com
Myrtle’s Chicken and Beer: I’m a Southern girl and have an affinity for fried chicken, biscuits with gobs of butter, and tomatoes. You get all three and more at Myrtles on Market Square in downtown. It’s Southern comfort food: smoky baby back ribs, pimento mac and cheese, and chicken and waffles. The tomato pie is serious eats, truly hush-your-mouth good with sliced tomatoes, savory cheeses including gobs of mozzarella, a little basil, caramelized onions and a flaky crust. It’s like pizza, pie and quiche all rolled into one pan.
13 Market Square, Knoxville. 865-851-8833. myrtleschickenandbeer.com
A Dopo Sourdough Pizza: The pizza is wood-fired, based with sourdough and Neapolitan-style, which means it originated in Naples. The character are that it is simple and fresh. At A Dopo, the mozzarella is handmade and chewy, the basil the freshest and the olive oil the silkiest. Oh, that crust. It’s fat and bubbly, slightly charred and has few toppings, the way pizza is supposed to be. The margherita, my choice, was intensely flavorful. It may not be a fancy restaurant, but it is authentically Italian. In Italian, “a dopo” means “see you later.” Oh, yes, I definitely will. P.S. Try the small-batch gelato.
516 Williams St., Knoxville. 865-321-1297. adopopizza.com
Marble City Market: For a quick lunch or dinner of locally curated artisanal food, visit Marble City Market, 15,000 square feet of indoor dining space under one roof: The Corners Pizza, Penne for Your Thoughts, Fantail Fish and Frites, Po’ Richard’s, Seoul Brothers, Paysan Sandwich Shop, Smash Knoxville, Myrtle’s Bakeshop, The Donut Theory, Lake and Oak BBQ, Gekko Poke and Ramen, plus Frank and Georges for creative cocktails and Top Golf Swing Suite Simulators for virtual games of golf, baseball and more.
333 W. Depot Ave., Suite 110, Knoxville. 865-253-7193. marble citymarket.com
Maker Exchange at Marriott Knoxville Downtown: Inside the newly renovated hotel is the Maker Exchange. Dining is what I would term regional with a gourmet twist. The menu can change with what’s available, but think Southern specialties like baked chicken, fried shrimp, smoked pork belly and deviled eggs. You know you’re in Tennessee when pork skins are on the menu of such a snazzy restaurant.
525 Henley St., Knoxville. 865-522-2800. marriott.com/ hotels/travel/tysknmarriottknoxville-downtown/
French Market Creperie: At Knoxville’s first and only authentic French crepe restaurant, you’ll savor the sweet flavors, among them caramel with whipped cream, blueberries and lemon curd, Bavarian cream and, of course, crepes Suzette. For the not-so-sweet tooth, you’ll find sandwiches, including grilled cheese, omelets and croissants. The restaurant is as cozy and warm as a Paris café. Ooh-la-la! From the bakery, try the colorful, delicious macarons and petit fours.
412 Clinch Ave., Downtown Knoxville. 865-540-4372. 161 Brooklawn St., West Knoxville. 865-288-7912. thefrenchmarketknoxville.com
Sweet P’s BBQ: In all the barbecue joints, in all the towns, in all the world, I walk into Sweet P’s. Part dive, part restaurant, Sweet P’s is barbecue perfection. It’s known for its tender, smoky ribs and brisket, rich and creamy mac and cheese, and banana pudding with a sweet taste that lingers for a spell. Get the sampler plate so you can have a little bit of it all. It’s piled with a barbecue pork or chicken sandwich, a quarter rack of ribs, beef brisket and three sides.
410 W. Jackson Ave., Knoxville. 865-281-1738. sweetpbbq.com
Knox Whiskey Works: To get the flavor of Knoxville, adult-style, saddle up to the bar at Knox Whiskey Works, for a flight of 13 small-batch, handcrafted distilled spirits including whiskey, vodka, gin and rum. Or try a cocktail tasting flight of four housemade signature cocktails like the Jackson Avenue Gimlet with Jackson Avenue Gin or the Dragon Tail Lemonade with Deals Gap Dragon Tail Whiskey, uniquely and piquantly flavored with clover honey and extracts from haberno and ghost peppers.
516 W. Jackson Ave., Knoxville. 865-525-2372. knoxwhiskeyworks.com
Pretentious Beer: I can’t say enough about Pretentious Craft, a hybrid glass-blowing studio and craft beer brewery. Really. Half of the building is dedicated to creating one-of-akind brews with the best taste and names ever: Burn After Drinking, Chillax, Fluffy Sumo. In the other half, Matthew Cummings and his team design and produce exquisite glassware for beer, wine, cocktails and whiskey. Watching him handcraft a glass from start to finish is fascinating. This place is flat-out fun, perhaps because of Cummings’ mantra, “We take what we do seriously, but we don’t take ourselves seriously.”
131 S. Central St., Knoxville. Pretentious Beer 865-851-7693 or Pretentious Glass at 865-2498677. pretentiousbeerco.com
Oliver Royale: For a fancier, more intimate dinner in a historic setting, the Oliver Royale at the chic Oliver Hotel is where to go. The dining area is small, the globed lighting romantic and the dark wood intriguing. The food? Stunning in taste and presentation. It’s seasonal, regional and fresh. Start with loaded deviled eggs or seared scallops, followed by North Carolina trout or wild mushroom ravioli, and then end with carrot cake or bread pudding, made with berries or fruit of the moment. All the pasta is made daily in-house. Pair your meal with a wonderful wine or specialty cocktail.
5 Market Square, Knoxville. 865-622-6434. oliverroyale.com Phoenix Pharmacy and Fountain: Finish a trip to Knoxville with visit to this old-fashioned soda fountain. When I asked for something sweet with peanut butter and chocolate, owner Nolan Sherrill said, “I can make you anything peanut butter and chocolate.” He whipped together a huge, impressive PB&C sundae piled with whipped cream, cherries and homemade ice cream that was unreal delicious. Every sundae, every ice cream sandwich, every milkshake, every float is handmade or handspun into a frozen concoction that will leave you sighing with goodness. Ask what’s seasonal, whether blueberries, strawberries, rosemary or pawpaw.