San Diego Union-Tribune (Sunday)
Taquitos are the star at San Diego’s El Tianguis
This interview was translated from Spanish.
Named after open-air markets in Mexico, El Tianguis is focusing on fresh to turn a Mexican fast-food staple into something special. The San Diegobased restaurant specializes in a single dish only: rolled tacos, also called taquitos.
“If you look at the comments I’ve received, (you’ll see) ‘These are the best taquitos I’ve had in my life or in San Diego,’ ” said the eatery’s owner, Oscar Ancira. “People are fans of the taquito.”
Using corn tortillas made in-house, El Tianguis has been drawing converts to its hand-rolled taquitos since 2018, when Ancira opened his first outpost in North Park. An Otay Ranch location came later and a third El Tianguis opened last year in the Civita community at Mission Valley.
Alcira has deep ties to rolled tacos — his family founded Delimex, the frozen Mexican food line that’s a staple in many households across the country. Ancira says El Tianguis’ fresh, house-made taquitos are nothing like Delimex, which his family sold to Heinz in 2001.
“People think we’re the same company, but when they try my taquitos, they’ll taste the difference,” Ancira said.
Typically topped with Mexican sour cream, cheese, cabbage, pico de gallo and guacamole, El Tianguis taquitos are gluten-free and made with beef, chicken or vegan options like potatoes and lentils. The shop also offers El T Bowls, made with chicken or carne asada over a bed of fries or rice.
Ancira said it’s hard owning a small business with inflation and uncertainty looming over fears of a recession. Regardless, he said, he’s proud to offer high-quality Mexican food that is accessible, affordable and delicious.
Follow @eateltianguis on Instagram.