San Diego Union-Tribune (Sunday)
TO BOLDLY GO ...
For some, the idea of taking off to parts unknown has little appeal. “Home is where the heart is,” as Roman author Pliny the Elder wrote 2,000 years ago. Many others, however, agree with actress-writer Jaime Lyn Beatty: “Jobs fill your pocket, but adventu
As 2023 ends, I will remember it as the year I saw the world in 90 days. This was not my first solo trip. At 15, I went alone to New York. Since then, I’ve been to nearly every continent solo. This seemed like the perfect time to do it again. We are empty nesters now. But my husband did not want to travel out of the U.S. and I did not want to miss the window of access, health and courage that it took. So, on May 7, I headed out, and over the next 90 days, I learned the world is small and we are mostly alike. Before returning to the U.S., I traveled to the Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia, India, Israel, Turkey,
Mccabe is a marketing professor, author and podcast host who lives in San Diego. Visit 5Stepstosolotravel.com for more on women’s solo travel and her seven-minute podcast, Dr. Mary Travelbest Guide, on Spotify.
Italy, England, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Iceland.
During that time, I hopped on 18 different airlines, transited through 25 airports, and shared accommodations with 70 roommates in 16 hostels, 17 hotels and six home-stays.
One of my missions on this voyage was to build bridges of cultural understanding through peaceful interactions with locals worldwide. To achieve this, I joined Servas, a nonprofit organization facilitating my stay with host families in five countries. These families graciously opened their homes, allowing me to experience life as they did.
One of the biggest challenges that I faced was with food. Every country I visited had special foods; not all would suit me, so I had to adjust. I can’t eat spicy or hot chilis, so in countries like India, I had to adapt to what was available not to starve. I carried a jar of peanut butter in my pack to get protein.
Even when those who prepared the food told me “no spice,” there was a chili spice. Peanut butter was my friend.
Some of my most memorable moments as a traveler happened in India. Walking down an alley in Chennai, I saw a woman in a tiny plywood shack. The room barely fit her and the TV she was watching. It was at least 100 degrees Fahrenheit. It made me realize how fortunate we are in the U.S.
Going through airports and tourist locations, women are screened with metal detectors separately from men. At a security screening for the Taj Mahal in Agra, my head hit the top of the machine as I was too tall.
After leaving my beach area hotel, I planned to take a bus to a recommended museum as the seasonal cyclones approached Goa. Standing on the corner waiting for the bus in the midday humidity tried my patience. I changed my mind and agreed to ride behind a male taxi/motorcycle driver to visit the Museum of Goa. He said he knew where it was, but it was clear that he did not because he stopped people walking the streets to ask them for directions. After 20 minutes of winding single-lane roads through remote and then industrial areas, we arrived, and he dropped me off. I was already thinking, how would I get to my next destination in South Goa because this was off the beaten path? I was a month into my trip, and this was a challenge among many. The museum’s founder, Subodh Kerkar, a physician turned artist, happened to be going in my direction, and he drove me to the bus stop after seeing the artistic attraction. Four transfer buses later, I arrived at my next destination.
Travel became more comfortable as I learned more about the people. On my
final day in India, although I still got lost often, I could begin to understand the culture and appreciate the country’s diversity. I learned that the world was smaller than I imagined before.
I recount an unexpected adventure in Agra, where I found myself amidst the whirlwind of planning an Indian wedding, a cultural event of immense significance. Though I couldn’t attend the wedding due to my timing, I did visit the Taj Mahal and had a dramatic 10-mile high-speed chase to catch the bus back to New Delhi the next day, which added an unexpected thrill to my journey.
The beauty of solo travel lies in the unpredictability of experiences. In Tel Aviv, Israel, I was hosted by a family through Servas and had the opportunity to attend a peaceful protest rally. Though I didn’t understand the speakers, being there allowed me to witness the community’s commitment to its rights.
I learned that making decisions is probably the best skill when traveling solo. Unless I made a decision, I was not going anywhere. My journey was a testament to the power of decision-making and selfreliance. I discovered that I could do far more than I had initially expected.
Resilience emerged as one of my key takeaways from this adventure, a quality that every solo traveler can relate to. The ability to adapt, overcome challenges and embrace the unknown became my daily mantra.
The treasure is not in counting countries or sites visited. The treasure is in the stories that came from the people I met. My travels were enriched by the people I encountered, proving that the heart of any journey lies in human connections.
In Florence, Italy, I met three solo women in their mid-20s from the U.S. who enjoyed the food I prepared at the downtown hostel in an austere kitchen, using noodles and butter. We shared a bottle of rose wine and had a meal as we celebrated Independence Day on July 4. I don’t remember their names, but we created a bond, a peace pact to each travel solo with enthusiasm for the unknown. I needed that encouraging feeling because I had tripped myself with one bad step that day.
In Siem Reap, Cambodia, I got to know Ranuk Nuk, the driver of my hired tuk-tuk (a motorized version of the pulled rickshaw), who helped take me to places I wanted to see. The Cambodian economy is very slow, and he asked to tell my friends he’s available to drive them when they visit Siem Reap’s historic parks. During COVID-19, he lived in Thailand and worked in a factory since there was no tourism. I also met a chain smoker with the first name Jackyl who had no cellphone and was flying to Bangkok and then to Nepal. At the same hostel, I met Heidi, a German woman applying for grad school. We stayed at the Chilled Backpacker hostel with a pool in a shared room for 12 for $3 per night.
As for practical tips, I emphasize the importance of packing light. I carried a minimal “personal item” backpack weighing less than 15 pounds or 7 kilograms, saving hundreds of dollars in baggage fees. My journey was a testament to budget travel done right.
Regarding culinary experiences, I’m not a foodie, but I did have some favorites. I particularly savored the pizza in Florence at Gusta and the rich butter and ice creams in Ireland and Scotland. Conversely, Chennai provided me with the spiciest and least enjoyable culinary encounter.
And for the weather, Iceland emerged as a favorite destination with its cool and pleasant climate, a refreshing contrast to the sweltering heat experienced in many other parts of the world.
If you have a goal, break it into pieces to take it one step at a time. I believe in rewarding oneself for minimilestones achieved along the way, a practice I embraced with massages during my journey.
As I reflect on my incredible 90-day odyssey, my stories aim to inspire women over 50 to explore, break free from their comfort zones, and embrace the world with courage and curiosity. My journey is not just a tale of travel; it’s a testament to the resilience and potential within each of us.