San Diego Union-Tribune (Sunday)
Elvira eatery in OB celebrates Italian traditions
Elvira, a new Roman osteria and pizzeria, is bringing a sense of nostalgia, warmth and Italian comfort foods to Ocean Beach.
The eatery at 4996 West Point Loma Boulevard was founded by Cesarina Mezzoni, Niccolò Angius and Giuseppe Capasso, who own the Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded Icesarina Ristorante in Point Loma.
Set in a charming 1930’s cottage renovated to embody a “Nonna chic” aesthetic, Elvira reflects the legacy of Angius’ great grandmother, Elvira Lippi, who he said was a beacon in his life. He hopes to follow her example with the new restaurant.
“The way in which (Elvira Lippi) would always show love was through her food,” Angius said. “The delicious food, the warmth, the love of the family has been part of my life since I was a young kid.”
From homemade pastas to woodfired pizzas, everything at Elvira is made from scratch with fresh ingredients imported from Italy.
The Roman-style pizza in teglia or pan pizza by Palermo-born Executive Pizza Chef Ignazio Tagliavia is an Elvira specialty served in a round shape.
Daily specials follows Rome’s informal weekly meal calendar: Tuesdays are for meatballs, Thursdays feature gnocchi, Fridays highlight fish and Saturdays are for trippa alla romana or braised tripe.
As is fitting at an osteria, or wine bar, Elvira serves wine by the quarter, half, or full-liter carafe instead of by the glass. Cocktails are made with Italian spirits and local and Italian craft beers are also available.
The restaurant has a private dining room — Cucina di La Nonna, or grandmother’s kitchen — that will soon be available for small parties. Anguis said it will be reminiscent of his great grandmother’s home, with guests made to feel like a part of the family.
Follow @ciaoelvira on Instagram.