Ham and Cheese Pasta Shells With a Handful of Peas

This dish offers a classic demonstration of the principle that the better quality your ingredients, the better your results. I made this dish twice. The first time, I used what I had in the house, my favorite organic penne rigate and the frozen remains of our delicious cherryglazed Christmas ham; the second time, with run-of-the mill pasta in the designated shell shape and a bland supermarket ham steak. The first time the recipe wowed me; the second time, not so much. Sifton recommends using unsalted butter and organic peas for greater sweetness. Go for the flavor!

NICOLE SOURS LARSON

Pasta shells

Ham

Butter

Swiss cheese

Peas

Parmesan

Set a large pot of salted water to boil and add your pasta. While the pasta cooks, cube the ham, and get to work on the next burner, browning the ham in a pat of good unsalted butter in a skillet. Offstage, grate about a cup of Swiss cheese into a large serving bowl. When the pasta has been cooked just shy of the time called for on its packaging, throw in a handful of peas, cook another minute, and then drain, reserving a little cooking water. Toss the whole mess into the Swiss cheese, along with the hot ham, another pat or two of butter, and a splash of the pasta water. Watch as the cheese goes soft and ribbony in the heat, and the fat of the ham mingles with the butter and pasta water, and the shells pick up some of it and grab peas in their valves. Shave some Parmesan over the top. Finish with a little pepper. Don’t you want to eat that right now?