VARIATIONS AND SUBSTITUTIONS:

• If you’re going the mushroom route, large trumpets can make fat, meaty slabs, but clusters of oyster mushrooms work well, too.

• If you can’t find cutlets at your grocery store, make your own. Use two medium chicken breasts, about 12 ounces total, and cut horizontally through each breast so the meat opens like a book; separate the halves. Trim away any fat or sinew.

• I like how quickly chicken breast cutlets cook, but feel free to try this with boneless, skinless thighs or chicken tenders. The thighs should be pounded to a near-even thickness; use care because they have a tendency to break into pieces. The tenders will take less time, so keep a close eye on them.

• I love the mustard as a coating here, but many Italian recipes suggest you simply dredge the damp cutlets in flour, so skip it if you want.

• All-purpose flour is the preferred piccata coating in the Italian cookbooks I’ve consulted — though your family or favorite restaurant may make it differently. Consider using breadcrumbs for a crispier crust.

• No wine? Use more stock or water.

• The butter adds richness and emulsifies nicely. Vegan butter or refined coconut oil could work, too.

• Out of capers? Try chopped green olives or extra parsley.