Creamy Chard With Ricotta, Parmesan and Breadcrumbs

Makes 6 to 8 servings

3 pounds chard, any color (from about 6 bunches)

Salt and pepper Extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing the baking dish and drizzling 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups half-and-half or milk, plus more as needed Ground nutmeg, to taste Ground cayenne, to taste About 1 pound fresh ricotta

3⁄4 cup grated Parmesan

3⁄4 cup dry breadcrumbs, preferably homemade

Wash chard in a deep basin of cold tap water. Remove stems and reserve for another purpose (chopped and added to vegetable soup, for instance). Chop or tear chard leaves into rough 2-inch pieces.

Bring a large pot of wellsalted water to a boil over high heat. Submerge chard, turning it so it cooks evenly, and simmer over medium heat, 1 minute or so. Drain and set aside to cool for 10 minutes.

Oil a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Make a béchamel: Melt butter in a heavy 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add flour, stir well and let mixture cook for a minute or so, without browning. Slowly add 2 cups half-and-half, 1⁄4 cup at a time, whisking well as mixture thickens. Turn heat to low.

Season sauce with a good pinch of salt, a little bit of nutmeg and a speck of cayenne. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Taste and correct seasoning. Consistency should be gravylike and not too thick — thin with more half-andhalf as necessary.

While the sauce cooks, squeeze the cooled chard dry, and, using a large knife, cut it into 1⁄2-inch slices. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to the prepared baking dish. Top with blobs of ricotta, evenly spaced.

Pour or spoon warm béchamel over dish, covering everything evenly to the edges. Sprinkle with Parmesan and breadcrumbs. Drizzle with a little olive oil in a fine stream. Bake until bubbling and nicely browned, 40 minutes. Let cool slightly, then serve hot or warm.

Tips: This can be made up to 24 hours in advance, refrigerated, and reheated for 15 to 20 minutes in a 350-degree oven, until the casserole bubbles at the edges.