Pie needs no reason why
Ies are happiness. These easier-thanyou’d-think Thanksgiving recipes capture the spirit of classic diner desserts and embrace the flavors we now crave, whatever form they take. Bake one — or all three.
PCaramel Apple Pie
Here, a carnival caramel apple is stacked onto a buttery crust: The snap of fresh apple slices gives way to soft salted caramel and a melt-inyour-mouth cookie base. It’s put together as a pie with layers like a bar cookie for a look that’s impressive but simple to pull off. The dough doesn’t require rolling. Instead, you press crumbs into a pie plate and end up with a cross between sturdy shortbread and sandy French sablés. A candy thermometer takes the guesswork out of caramel, but you don’t need one to make the stretchy filling. For a tangy contrast to the filling’s sweetness, use tart green apples, but feel free to swap them for other varieties you like.
Makes one 9-inch pie
FOR THE CRUST:
1⁄3 cup/73 grams granulated sugar 1 teaspoon fine sea or table salt 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
11⁄3 cups/193 grams all-purpose flour 11 tablespoons/154 grams cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
FOR THE FILLING AND TOPPING:
11⁄2 cups/324 grams granulated sugar 2 tablespoons light corn syrup 5 tablespoons/70 grams unsalted butter 1 cup/230 grams heavy cream
1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea or table salt
1 to 2 Granny Smith or other tart green apples
1⁄4 lemon
Make the crust: Pulse the sugar, salt and vanilla in a food processor until the sugar is evenly moistened. Add the flour and pulse until well blended. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
Pour all the crumbs into a standard 9-inch pie dish. Gently sweep them into an even layer, then press the crumbs against the bottom and sides of the pan, forming a 1⁄4-inch-thick edge. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. (The dough can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days before baking.)
Arrange a rack in the center of the oven and heat oven to 350 degrees. Use a fork to poke holes in the bottom of the chilled crust, patting back any crumbs that come loose. Bake until the center is pale golden brown and the edges are golden brown, 20 to 23 minutes. The center should feel set but a bit soft. Don’t overbake or the crust will be tough after it cools. Cool completely on a rack.
Make the caramel: Pour ⁄4 cup
1
cold water into a large saucepan. Pour the sugar in the center of the pan (you don’t want any to touch the sides), then pour the corn syrup on top. Bring to a boil over medium heat without touching the mixture. Let it bubble until it turns golden. Swirl the pan so the color evens out and continue cooking until it’s dark amber. Immediately and carefully add the butter. The mixture will bubble up. Start whisking and carefully add the cream in a steady stream while whisking, then whisk in the salt.
Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally with a heatproof spatula, until the mixture is at the soft ball stage (240 degrees), about 8 minutes. If you don’t have a candy thermometer, fill a mug with ice water. After the mixture has boiled for 7 minutes, scoop a small spoonful and immerse it in the ice water. Let it sit for a few seconds to cool, fish it out and pop it in your mouth. It should form a ball and be soft and chewy. If it isn’t, repeat the test in a minute.
Turn off the heat and stir just until the bubbles subside. In that minute or two, the caramel will continue to cook; you want it at 245 degrees. At that point, pour it into the cooled pie shell. Tilt the pan if needed to spread it evenly.
Let stand at room temperature until firm and cool, or refrigerate to chill and set more quickly. The set caramel tart can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Up to a few hours before serving, cut an apple into quarters or sixths, then slice out the stem and core. Cut the pieces crosswise into
1⁄8-inch-thick slices, using a mandoline if you have one, a sharp knife if you don’t. Squeeze a little lemon juice over all the slices, tossing to evenly and barely coat. Shingle the slices in rows on top of the chilled caramel. Slice the other apple if needed to cover the top.*
Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake
Fluffier than both cheesecake and pumpkin pie, this dessert combines a silky cream cheese-pumpkin filling and a tangy sour cream topping with a graham cracker crust. The warmth of ginger, ground and candied, ties together the other warming spices: cinnamon, cardamom and turmeric for flavors reminiscent of — and as soothing as — turmeric tea and chai.
Makes 8 to 12 servings
FOR THE CRUST:
1⁄2 cup/114 grams unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for the pan
21⁄4 cups/239 grams graham cracker crumbs (from about 15 crackers)
3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon fine sea or table salt
FOR THE FILLING: 1 (8-ounce/226-gram) block cream cheese, softened
3⁄ cup/150 grams sugar
4
11⁄2 teaspoons ground ginger
3⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea or table salt 1 (15-ounce/425-gram) can pure pumpkin
2 teaspoons brandy (optional) 2 large eggs, at room temperature
FOR THE TOPPING:
1⁄4 cup/50 grams sugar
1⁄4 teaspoon ground turmeric 11⁄2 cups/342 grams sour cream
Candied ginger, cut into thin slivers or pieces, for garnish
Make the crust: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9- or 91⁄2-inch deep-dish pie plate. Mix the crumbs, sugar and salt in a large bowl (or pulse in a food processor if you’ve ground your own crumbs). Add the butter and mix (or pulse) until the mixture is well blended and feels like wet sand.
Dump all of the crumbs into the pie plate and spread in an even layer.
Firmly press against the sides, but not over the rim if there is one, to form a 1⁄4-inch-thick edge. Firmly press the rest of the loose crumbs against the bottom. Bake until darker brown and dry and firm to the touch, 12 to 15 minutes. Turn the oven heat down to 325 degrees.
While the crust bakes, make the filling: Beat the cream cheese with an electric stand or hand mixer until
there are no tiny cream-cheese lumps. Add the sugar, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom and salt, and beat until very smooth, scraping the bowl if needed. Add the pumpkin and brandy (if using), and beat until fully incorporated, then beat in the eggs just until combined. You don’t want to beat the mixture too much once the eggs are added or your filling will balloon and then sink rather than bake evenly.
Pour the filling into the crust (it’s OK if it’s hot, warm or cooled) and spread in an even layer. Bake until the edges are set, the entire top looks dry and the very center is just a bit jiggly, 45 to 50 minutes.
After the cheesecake goes into the oven, make the topping:
Mix the sugar and turmeric in a medium bowl, breaking up any clumps. Add the sour cream and stir gently until evenly tinted gold. Let sit at room temperature until ready to use.
Carefully spread the topping over the hot baked filling in an even layer. Return to the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack, then refrigerate uncovered until cold, at least 2 hours and up to 3 days. (Cover loosely with plastic wrap after 2 hours if you plan to chill it longer.)
When ready to serve, decorate the top with the candied ginger.