San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Best Latin American restaurants
Although the Mission District may be losing its Latino residents — according to a 2017 city report, since 2000 the Latino population of the neighborhood has decreased from 33 percent to 15 percent — the neighborhood is still the culinary heart of San Francisco’s diverse Latin American community.
Anyone can get burritos in the Richmond and the Bayview. But the Mission’s Mexican, Salvadoran, Nicaraguan and Peruvian restaurants are owned by — and, more importantly, operated for — Mexican, Salvadoran, Nicaraguan and Peruvian American diners.
Tacos at El Gallo Giro
Just as burrito lovers battle it out between La Taqueria, El Farolito and CanCun, there are Tonayense fans and El Gallo Giro fans. Those of us in the latter camp may seek out the taco truck to fill out our plates with cabeza tacos, beef cheek braised into transcendance or the beautifully marinated al pastor. They’re merely appetizers: The main course is, and will always be, the truck’s carnitas.
Not content to simmer the pork in its own fat until it falls apart, the cooks then press the meat onto the grill and leave it until the fibers separate, browning every exterior surface. The shredded pork is simultaneously crisp, toasty, feathery and tender, able to withstand the onslaught of cilantro, chopped onion and salsa roja. Some of us order an extra carnitas taco, just to pick off the meat as a kind of savory dessert. — J.K.
The corner of Treat Street and 23rd Street
Tacos at El Tonayense
I respect Jonathan Kauffman’s allegiance to El Gallo Giro (above), and he surely speaks the truth about all things carnitas. But for some reason, I also find myself gravitating to El Tonayense when I want a taco fix. Maybe it’s the familiarity bred over the years. Other trucks may excel in carnitas or tripas or lengua, but for me, the allure of El Tonayense is its salsas. As such, I’ve yet to find anything quite like a taco from there. To be honest though, at the end of the day, I’d be happy with a plate of tacos from either El Tonayense or El Gallo Giro. — Paolo Lucchesi
1719 Harrison St., at 14th Street (outside Best Buy)
Carnitas burrito at Taqueria El Castillito
The Castillito chain, once owned by the same family, has atomized, and most locations are run independently. For what some believe is the best burrito in San Francisco — carnitas, naturally, surrounded by some of the most flavorful rice and beans you’ll taste in a flour tortilla — you’ll have to go to the original location, run by the daughter of the founder. — J.K.
2092 Mission St., at 17th Street
Soup at La Santaneca de la Mission
Of course the pupusas at La Santaneca are stellar — they’re on our Hall of Fame list — but at least one person at every table is spoon-deep in a giant bowl of soup. A deep, sweet shrimp broth is the heart of the sopa de camaron, clouds of scrambled eggs floating on top, and the sopa de res is filled with big chunks of zucchini, carrots, potatoes and corn in addition to beef no more substantial than a good intention. — J.K.
2815 Mission St., at 24th Street
Poc-Chuc at Poc-Chuc
Immigrants from the Yucatan make up one of the largest regional Mexican groups in San Francisco, and aside from a few Yucatecan dishes on the menu at Tommy’s, Poc-Chuc is now the most venerable Yucatecan restaurant in the city. Its salbutes, chilmole de pavo and cochinita pibil are all notable, but its namesake dish — marinated pork given a blast of fire on the grill and a dose of lime on the plate — is the one most people come here for. — J.K.
2886 16th St., at Shotwell Street
Plato Nica at Las Tinajas
This lunch-only restaurant, with its cafeteria line and scuffed tables, has been a second living room for San Francisco’s Nicaraguan community for more than two decades. On Tuesdays and Fridays diners come for baho (yuca and steamed pork), on weekends for nacatamales (giant custard-soft tamales packed with meats and eggs). Every day, though, the cooks will put together a reliable combination platter: soft, sweet plantains and starchy plantain chips, gallo pinto (beans stir-fried with rice), marinated pork and a block of crispy, tart fried cheese. — J.K.
2338 Mission St., at 19th Street
Ceviche at Cholo Soy
Open only during the day, in the lobby of an office building, Cholo Soy has the feel of a stand on a busy street. Its ceviches — the ceviche de pescado, with velvety white fish in an electric lime marinade, and the chalaco, which adds golden aji puree to the mix — are anything but casual, alternatingly creamy and sharp, acidic