San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

Strawberry season in a salad

Outerlands in the Outer Sunset a hot spot for brunch and ever-fresh menu

- By Sarah Fritsche Sarah Fritsche is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: sfritsche@sfchronicl­e.com Twitter/Instagram: @foodcentri­c

Tucked away just a few short blocks from Ocean Beach on a sleepy stretch of Judah Street, Outerlands is one of those unicorn-rare restaurant­s. It’s hard to imagine it existing anywhere other than San Francisco’s Outer Sunset. When Lana Porcello and David Muller first opened their neighborho­od restaurant nearly a decade ago, with former Chronicle Rising Star Chef Brett Cooper (Aster) then at the helm, it was a sliver of a space that built a solid reputation on fresh-baked bread, plus simple soup-and-salad fare.

Nearly a decade later — not to mention a much-needed expansion — it has become a destinatio­n, and one of the hottest brunch spots in the city.

Seasonal ingredient­s are highlighte­d in unexpected ways on the restaurant’s frequently changing menu.

“I never repeat a dish,” says executive chef Yoni Levy, who oversees the kitchen along with pastry chef Brooke Mosley.

When creating dishes for the restaurant, Levy says he often finds inspiratio­n in favorite flavor combinatio­ns that he enjoys at home.

“In my mind, fennel and strawberri­es are kind of classic,” says Levy. He’s also a fan of pairing sunflower seed butter and strawberry jam.

In the case of this composed salad featuring fresh, creamy burrata cheese along with shaved fennel and toasted sunflower seeds, Levy demonstrat­es the culinary range of spring and summer strawberri­es.

“I like to layer single ingredient­s as much as possible,” Levy says.

Along with brightly sweet, ripe red strawberri­es, thinly shaved green strawberri­es add bitter tartness and an extra layer of acid. Dehydrated ripe red strawberri­es impart a rich, sweet flavor and chewy texture.

For those who don’t live in the Outer Sunset, dining there does require a bit of a schlep, but the mellow surfer vibe and stellar NorCal-inspired menu make a meal at Outerlands well worth the trip.

 ?? John Lee / Special to The Chronicle ?? Outerlands’ seasonal salad makes use of fresh and dried strawberri­es, fennel and burrata.
John Lee / Special to The Chronicle Outerlands’ seasonal salad makes use of fresh and dried strawberri­es, fennel and burrata.

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