San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Strawberry season in a salad
Outerlands in the Outer Sunset a hot spot for brunch and ever-fresh menu
Tucked away just a few short blocks from Ocean Beach on a sleepy stretch of Judah Street, Outerlands is one of those unicorn-rare restaurants. It’s hard to imagine it existing anywhere other than San Francisco’s Outer Sunset. When Lana Porcello and David Muller first opened their neighborhood restaurant nearly a decade ago, with former Chronicle Rising Star Chef Brett Cooper (Aster) then at the helm, it was a sliver of a space that built a solid reputation on fresh-baked bread, plus simple soup-and-salad fare.
Nearly a decade later — not to mention a much-needed expansion — it has become a destination, and one of the hottest brunch spots in the city.
Seasonal ingredients are highlighted in unexpected ways on the restaurant’s frequently changing menu.
“I never repeat a dish,” says executive chef Yoni Levy, who oversees the kitchen along with pastry chef Brooke Mosley.
When creating dishes for the restaurant, Levy says he often finds inspiration in favorite flavor combinations that he enjoys at home.
“In my mind, fennel and strawberries are kind of classic,” says Levy. He’s also a fan of pairing sunflower seed butter and strawberry jam.
In the case of this composed salad featuring fresh, creamy burrata cheese along with shaved fennel and toasted sunflower seeds, Levy demonstrates the culinary range of spring and summer strawberries.
“I like to layer single ingredients as much as possible,” Levy says.
Along with brightly sweet, ripe red strawberries, thinly shaved green strawberries add bitter tartness and an extra layer of acid. Dehydrated ripe red strawberries impart a rich, sweet flavor and chewy texture.
For those who don’t live in the Outer Sunset, dining there does require a bit of a schlep, but the mellow surfer vibe and stellar NorCal-inspired menu make a meal at Outerlands well worth the trip.