San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
I SPENT A WEEK IN JUMPSUITS
The jumpsuit is a workhorse in more ways than one. Although the one-piece wonders were created for skydivers and aviators, the utilitarian jumpsuit is now a favorite of both high-speed race-car drivers and highend fashion designers.
A browse through the spring 2018 runways illustrates their modern versatility: Tibi went for a more “traditional” utilitarian vibe, while Stella McCartney favored an oversize 1980s aesthetic. Valentino and Max Mara’s interpretations were pastel and ladylike. Dior offered a black leather number, while Gucci — no surprise here — channeled the ’70s.
But despite a practicality that is compelling, I was curious whether a jumpsuit could replace my favorite dresses and go-to pantsuits. Could an un-gendered Soviet mono-garment offer the convenience of a dress while removing the emotional labor of putting together a full look?
I don’t gravitate toward a monotonous aesthetic, so the idea of wearing a onesie for all occasions is strictly not appealing.
A New York organization called the Rational Dress Society has designed a jumpsuit that’s meant to replace one’s entire wardrobe as an alternative to the “relentless forward motion of fashion.” The website quotes German socialist Karl Marx as well as Sir Thomas More’s 500-yearold satire “Utopia,” which describes a homogenous dress code among the Utopians.
Forgive me, but not only is this antithetical to fashion’s foray into diversity and individuality, but it sounds like no fun at all, unless I’m driving a race car or jumping out of a plane (no way).
Sure, we all have the freedom to choose a freedom from choice — but I don’t choose that. I am not the same person every day, so neither is my
wardrobe.
Designer Misha Nonoo has recently offered a few elegant black iterations, and promises that the jumpsuit can actually be quite versatile.
“The jumpsuit is the ultimate dayto-play piece, something that should be a part of every professional woman’s wardrobe,” Nonoo said. “Out of my new collection, the Valentina jumpsuit is one I am always reaching for. It’s great to wear to events instead of a dress and can also be paired down for a sophisticated office look.”
So certainly I could muscle through for one week.
To begin, I “shopped my closet,” uncovering a belted denim ’70s-style option from Amour Vert, a navy Club Monaco romper (the jumpsuit’s younger cousin), a black tuxedo-style jumpsuit from Argent, and a black button-down long-sleeve jumpsuit, also from Club Monaco.
For the rest, I turned to Rent the Runway, whose designer rental model is ideal for sartorial test drives. It turns out that I’m not the only RTR customer clamoring for a jumpsuit or three.
Rent the Runway chief merchant officer Sarah Tam tells me that jumpsuits are the company’s highest-demand category this spring, with about 60 percent of inventory out at any given time — and that’s after RTR purchased 140 percent more jumpsuits this season. “Our customers are enthusiastically embracing them,” Tam says. “The one-piece silhouette is easy and effortless to wear. The vibe this season ranged from slouchy utility options for casual everyday looks to chic daytime options that could be worn to work.”
She recommends denim-inspired pieces, like a kimono-sleeve Cushnie Et Ochs and a belted option from M.i.h. Jeans, plus jumpsuits with all-over patterns, like a chrysanthemum-print from Vince and a striped one from Diane von Furstenberg.
From Rent the Runway, I landed on a floral Karen Zambos romper that I wore for a casual backyard dinner party, a Black Hunter Bell option (with side cut-outs!) for a panel discussion, and a diaphanous pink jumpsuit from Fame & Partners for a date.
I wore the denim Amour Vert for a meeting, but for almost all other occasions, one of the two black jumpsuits was the status quo.
In San Francisco, I found, a jumpsuit often makes sense. It’s warmer than a dress, and easier to style with flats. If one wanted to jump on a GoBike, a jumpsuit would be less likely to succumb to a wardrobe malfunction. And if formality is required, one certainly can dress it up.
While expedient, I found that lack of thought to be muting; if what we wear is our personal billboard, then what does it say to me that I’m constantly wearing one all-black item?
And for all the talk of practicality, jumpsuits are largely lacking in fit. Like most women, I’m not the same size on top and bottom, so to find a jumpsuit that is likely to fit through myriad weight fluctuations, a larger size is a safer bet — but also far less flattering.
Finally, there’s also the question of the ladies’ room. The convenience of a quick visit turns into a full-throttle disrobing in all but the Argent design. And if comfort is a determining factor, a nude bathroom stint ikely doesn’t qualify.
Going forward, I’m holding onto only the best-fitting jumpsuits. At least if I ever jump out of a plane I’ll be on trend.