San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

I SPENT A WEEK IN JUMPSUITS

- By Maghan McDowell Maghan McDowell is a San Francisco freelance writer. Email: style@sfchronicl­e.com.

The jumpsuit is a workhorse in more ways than one. Although the one-piece wonders were created for skydivers and aviators, the utilitaria­n jumpsuit is now a favorite of both high-speed race-car drivers and highend fashion designers.

A browse through the spring 2018 runways illustrate­s their modern versatilit­y: Tibi went for a more “traditiona­l” utilitaria­n vibe, while Stella McCartney favored an oversize 1980s aesthetic. Valentino and Max Mara’s interpreta­tions were pastel and ladylike. Dior offered a black leather number, while Gucci — no surprise here — channeled the ’70s.

But despite a practicali­ty that is compelling, I was curious whether a jumpsuit could replace my favorite dresses and go-to pantsuits. Could an un-gendered Soviet mono-garment offer the convenienc­e of a dress while removing the emotional labor of putting together a full look?

I don’t gravitate toward a monotonous aesthetic, so the idea of wearing a onesie for all occasions is strictly not appealing.

A New York organizati­on called the Rational Dress Society has designed a jumpsuit that’s meant to replace one’s entire wardrobe as an alternativ­e to the “relentless forward motion of fashion.” The website quotes German socialist Karl Marx as well as Sir Thomas More’s 500-yearold satire “Utopia,” which describes a homogenous dress code among the Utopians.

Forgive me, but not only is this antithetic­al to fashion’s foray into diversity and individual­ity, but it sounds like no fun at all, unless I’m driving a race car or jumping out of a plane (no way).

Sure, we all have the freedom to choose a freedom from choice — but I don’t choose that. I am not the same person every day, so neither is my

wardrobe.

Designer Misha Nonoo has recently offered a few elegant black iterations, and promises that the jumpsuit can actually be quite versatile.

“The jumpsuit is the ultimate dayto-play piece, something that should be a part of every profession­al woman’s wardrobe,” Nonoo said. “Out of my new collection, the Valentina jumpsuit is one I am always reaching for. It’s great to wear to events instead of a dress and can also be paired down for a sophistica­ted office look.”

So certainly I could muscle through for one week.

To begin, I “shopped my closet,” uncovering a belted denim ’70s-style option from Amour Vert, a navy Club Monaco romper (the jumpsuit’s younger cousin), a black tuxedo-style jumpsuit from Argent, and a black button-down long-sleeve jumpsuit, also from Club Monaco.

For the rest, I turned to Rent the Runway, whose designer rental model is ideal for sartorial test drives. It turns out that I’m not the only RTR customer clamoring for a jumpsuit or three.

Rent the Runway chief merchant officer Sarah Tam tells me that jumpsuits are the company’s highest-demand category this spring, with about 60 percent of inventory out at any given time — and that’s after RTR purchased 140 percent more jumpsuits this season. “Our customers are enthusiast­ically embracing them,” Tam says. “The one-piece silhouette is easy and effortless to wear. The vibe this season ranged from slouchy utility options for casual everyday looks to chic daytime options that could be worn to work.”

She recommends denim-inspired pieces, like a kimono-sleeve Cushnie Et Ochs and a belted option from M.i.h. Jeans, plus jumpsuits with all-over patterns, like a chrysanthe­mum-print from Vince and a striped one from Diane von Furstenber­g.

From Rent the Runway, I landed on a floral Karen Zambos romper that I wore for a casual backyard dinner party, a Black Hunter Bell option (with side cut-outs!) for a panel discussion, and a diaphanous pink jumpsuit from Fame & Partners for a date.

I wore the denim Amour Vert for a meeting, but for almost all other occasions, one of the two black jumpsuits was the status quo.

In San Francisco, I found, a jumpsuit often makes sense. It’s warmer than a dress, and easier to style with flats. If one wanted to jump on a GoBike, a jumpsuit would be less likely to succumb to a wardrobe malfunctio­n. And if formality is required, one certainly can dress it up.

While expedient, I found that lack of thought to be muting; if what we wear is our personal billboard, then what does it say to me that I’m constantly wearing one all-black item?

And for all the talk of practicali­ty, jumpsuits are largely lacking in fit. Like most women, I’m not the same size on top and bottom, so to find a jumpsuit that is likely to fit through myriad weight fluctuatio­ns, a larger size is a safer bet — but also far less flattering.

Finally, there’s also the question of the ladies’ room. The convenienc­e of a quick visit turns into a full-throttle disrobing in all but the Argent design. And if comfort is a determinin­g factor, a nude bathroom stint ikely doesn’t qualify.

Going forward, I’m holding onto only the best-fitting jumpsuits. At least if I ever jump out of a plane I’ll be on trend.

 ?? Photos by Russell Yip / The Chronicle ?? Writer Maghan McDowell wears her Argent black jumpsuit (left) and a Karen Zambos onesie (right). Could a week of jumpsuits actually be freeing?
Photos by Russell Yip / The Chronicle Writer Maghan McDowell wears her Argent black jumpsuit (left) and a Karen Zambos onesie (right). Could a week of jumpsuits actually be freeing?
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