San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

5 essential knife-care tips

- By Sarah Fritsche

Josh Donald knows his knives.

As the co-owner of Bernal Cutlery, a knife shop at 593 Guerrero St. (near 18th Street), Donald is an endless resource of knife education. His shop is already a mustvisit for local chefs, and now he has shared much of his knowledge in a new book, “Sharp: The Definitive Guide to Knives, Knife Care, and Cutting Techniques, With Recipes From Great Chefs” (Chronicle Books; $27.50).

The book dives deep into both Western and Japanese knife-making history and the highly skilled artisans behind his favorite blades. It also is a must-own primer for any home cook or amateur cutlery enthusiast who is looking to up her game.

Donald recently stopped by 901 Mission to talk all things knives. Here are five things to keep in mind:

1. You don’t need a million fancy knives.

Having a variety of knives in your kitchen is handy, but when it comes down to it, if you can only afford one or two really good-quality knives, Donald recommends “a knife that can handle a big range of tasks.”

That means, on the larger side, either a Western-style chef ’s knife or a gyuto — a Japanese version of the chef ’s knife but with a blade that’s thinner and harder. For the latter, you will want a blade that’s 6 to 9 inches long. The knife doesn’t have to be particular­ly heavy — you’re not splitting wood, Donald notes. You want something fairly light that will cut smoothly.

A shorter and more narrow utility knife, such as a Western paring knife or a Japanese petty knife, is also wise to have on hand for smaller curved cuts and handheld cutting or peeling of fruits and vegetables.

2. Carbon steel versus stainless.

Which is better? Well, it depends on what you’re looking for in a knife.

Carbon steel blades can be sharpened to a finer edge and will hold sharpness longer than their stainless steel counterpar­ts. That said, they do require more care; they’re quicker to oxidize and can stain or rust when exposed to foods that are salty, highly acidic and have a basic pH level. Such knives should be washed and dried thoroughly after each use.

As the name implies, stainless steel knives are less likely to rust and, well, stain, but they are harder to sharpen and dull more quickly than their carbon counterpar­ts. However, if you’re looking for low maintenanc­e, these are the way to go.

3. Yes, you should sharpen your knives.

Depending on how often you use your knives, Donald recommends taking them to a profession­al for sharpening once every six months to a year. (Pro tip: If you are using an unfamiliar knife-sharpening service, Donald recommends giving them one test knife first to see how they do.)

At home, a steel or ceramic honing rod is a great way to maintain your knives in between profession­al sharpening­s.

To hone your knives, Donald recommends gripping the handle and placing the rod point-side down against a counter or work surface. Position the heel of the knife at the top of the rod, and keeping your knife at an angle about the width of a book of matches, slowly —“You don’t need to have the flaming swords of fury,” says Donald — run it down the length of the honing rod in a swiping motion, so that when you finish your first pass, the tip of the rod and knife are connected. Repeat this motion on the opposite side of the blade. Do this a couple more times on each side. (For a demo, go to https://bit.ly/2NQ8KGv.)

4. Diamond isn’t a knife’s best friend.

If you want to try your hand sharpening your knives at home, skip the diamond sharpening stones that are available on the market. They limit the life of your knife, especially if used incorrectl­y, says Donald.

He prefers the more gentle Japanese sharpening stones (synthetic or natural). Invest in three grit sizes — coarse (for heavy-duty fixes like removing chips and restoring the geometry of a knife’s edge), medium and fine grit (for smaller fixes and finessing) — to give your knives the full sharpening range.

5. When in doubt, ask an expert.

Informatio­n is good, whether it’s about a knife’s origin or the tasks for which it’s best suited. “When you buy a knife, the people that you buy from should be able to tell you about it,” says Donald. Drop by your local knife shop and tell them what kind of cooking you do and how much upkeep you’re willing to commit to. They should be able to help you pick a knife that’s right for you.

 ?? Liz Hafalia / The Chronicle 2014 ??
Liz Hafalia / The Chronicle 2014
 ??  ?? Opposite page: Josh Donald sharpens knives at his shop, Bernal Cutlery, in S.F. This page, top: Tadafusa stainless clad blue steel knives (left) and Hinoura River Jump knives (right) at the shop. Above left: Donald in his shop; his book about knife care, “Sharp.”
Opposite page: Josh Donald sharpens knives at his shop, Bernal Cutlery, in S.F. This page, top: Tadafusa stainless clad blue steel knives (left) and Hinoura River Jump knives (right) at the shop. Above left: Donald in his shop; his book about knife care, “Sharp.”
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 ?? Photos by Molly DeCoudreau­x / Chronicle Books ??
Photos by Molly DeCoudreau­x / Chronicle Books

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