Le camping

I drove through the warm, green valley of the Loire river — the scarlet poppies of France are blooming now — and took a look at the elegant campgrounds.

European camping is not American style. No man against Nature. No search for firewood. No sleeping on rocky ground. The French campground is a barbered level lawn. French campers sleep in comfortable cots inside gay striped tents — many Americans think their equipment is better than ours.

They cook on Gaz stoves. Probably whipping up butter and shallots for a steak Diane. Most of the camps here had swimming pools. Laundries and bathrooms.

Americans haven’t gone in for camping in great numbers, but they’re increasing. It is the cheapest way to do Europe. People who kept careful accounts tell me a couple can do it on $8-$12 a day. For EVERYTHING — except the cost of a camper.

Rented VW campers — the most popular — run about $200 a week. For a couple of weeks that might be all right. But more than that it would be better to buy. Ship the camper home for resale. Resale on campers is excellent now. Hippie crowd wants them for living, traveling, staying loose.

There are also camper tours. Ten or so campers go on their own during the day. Rendezvous at camps already reserved that night. Lowest price: $499 for 21 days, round trip on Pan Am from New York included.

Best source for information: Rajo Publications Box 1014, Grass Valley, Calif. 95945. Arranges tours for Europe, Africa, Hawaii, Australia. Also handles independent camper rentals. Has GOOD books and brochures on overseas camping.

Best book to read BEFORE you go: All About Camping in Europe, $3.50.

“We want to drive in southern Europe, staying at good, country hotels …”

Absolutely GREAT country inns belong to the Relais de Campagne (inns of the country), which acts as a control board on standards. They aren’t cheap — about $30 a day WITHOUT meals is average.

Most have only 10 to 25 rooms. Many starred by Michelin — a couple have three stars, the Nobel Prize of the table. You get their brochure of 175 inns, services and prices and a color photo of each, by writing French Lines, 555 Fifth Avenue, New York City. After you map your trip, any travel agent can book it for you.

“We are past 60 and are afraid of ‘jet lag’ if we fly to Europe …”

Age doesn’t seem to have much to do with it. The under-30s feel that time zone change. Sometimes more than someone older. Best I’ve found to combat it is break the trip with an overnight halfway.

Airport hotels have become quite elegant. Good service. Fine restaurants. Rooms have been costing me about $22. International Hotel at Los Angeles Airport, excellent. Airport hotels at Shannon good. Hilton Inn at Orly (Paris) one of the best. Top class Louisiane Room restaurant. (The bar murders you at $2.52 a drink! Bring a bottle for your room.)

Hotels IN the airport building at Toronto were windowless cubicles. For emergency stop only. Mocambo at Nadi, Fiji — (on the way to Australia) — has good rooms. Firstclass tropical bar. Mediocre dining room — but no more so than most food in Fiji. Hawaii is a good overnight en route to Far East. But no point in staying at the airport with all the grand hotels in Waikiki.

Prepare for a BIG shake down at ANY airport due to wave of skyjacks. French took me apart thoroughly before letting me on Air France at Orly. Shook out my flight bag. Had me unbutton and hold open jacket. Ran a steel loop over me, head to toe. (It buzzes when it senses metal.) United ran me through a scanning machine that does the same. All airlines running maximum check with sophisticated sensors.

“Can I carry a shotgun (in a case) on an airplane down to Mexico?”

I don’t know exact rules, but I think they’ll make you check it. Anyway, you’d better tell them what you’ve got right NOW. Or every burglar alarm in the airport will go off automatically.

This column originally appeared in The San Francisco Chronicle on June 25, 1972.

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