Recipe: Niloufer’s Parsi Eggplant Pickles

This recipe is adapted from Niloufer Ichaporia King’s “My Bombay Kitchen” (2007, University of California Press). In India, we pickle almost everything, from unripe green mangoes to gooseberries to this beautiful eggplant pickle that’s rich with bold flavors. Indian pickles — or aachars — are different from their Western counterparts. They use a combination of oil and spices to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, and they’re also typically not fermented. Some recipes require the pickles to be kept in the sun as they cure. Oils like mustard or sesame are the two most popular choices in India, with the former bringing in that wasabilike kick. But because of its high erucic acid content, mustard oil is not sold in America; there is a variety from Australia called Yandilla that is legally sold at Market Hall Foods in Oakland because it has a low erucic acid content.

Makes about 2 quarts

2 cups mustard, peanut or sesame oil (not toasted sesame oil)

2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

¾ cup thinly sliced garlic

¾ cup julienned, peeled fresh ginger root

2 tablespoons cayenne (see Note)

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

5 pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 cup sliced serrano or Thai peppers (see Note)

2½ cups apple cider vinegar

¾ packed light brown sugar or jaggery

2 tablespoons sea salt

Instructions: In a deep non-reactive pan, heat the oil until hot. Add the fenugreek, cumin and fennel seeds. They will sputter, but watch carefully to not let the seeds burn. If they burn, remove the seeds with a tea strainer, discard and repeat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until they turn golden brown. Reduce the heat to low. Add the cayenne and turmeric and cook for about 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the eggplant and peppers and stir to coat, then add the vinegar, sugar and salt. Stir well to combine and bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce the heat and let it simmer, uncovered, until the eggplant softens completely and the oil floats to the top, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Do not add water. If it looks like the eggplant is going to stick, add a few spoonfuls of vinegar. While the pickle is warm, taste and adjust the balance of sweet, salt and sour. When cool, stir to incorporate the oil and then bottle. Store in a cool, dark place.

Note: If you like the pickle less spicy, halve the amount of cayenne and peppers.