Tricks of the trade

Get to know your seafood suppliers: There are a number of great spots around the Bay Area that sell fresh live crabs. If you don’t already have a favorite Bay Area supplier, establish a relationship with one who can give you the skinny on how crab season is shaping up each year.

Chill the crabs: Placing the crabs in the freezer helps to slow them down when you’re ready to break them down. If you’re squeamish about dispatching a live crab yourself, some seafood stores will do it for you. Ask staff to cut the crabs “cioppino style.” Once broken down, cook as soon as possible.

Cornstarch is key: Tossing the crab in cornstarch helps absorb excess moisture before stir-frying, and thus will lessen the splatter when frying. Additionally, it thickens the sauce slightly and creates a crisp and textured exterior that allows the sauce to cling to the crab.

Pair it with wine: Consider pairing the finished dish — and raising a glass to celebrate what’s expected to be a good season for local Dungeness — with a bottle of Austrian Riesling or vintage Champagne.