San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

Tricks of the trade

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Aquafab-ulous:

The slightly viscous texture of the chickpea’s cooking liquid, also known as aquafaba, helps to create a luscious mouthfeel in the finished tagine.

Flavorful foundation:

Roasting the onions, fennel, carrots, potatoes and cauliflowe­r separately in the hot cast-iron skillet allows the vegetables to cook at their own pace and help maintain their structural integrity. Adding each vegetable as it emerges hot from the oven to the rich saffron-spiked tomato base helps to build layer upon layer of flavor as the tagine cooks. Leaving the stew to sit overnight in the refrigerat­or allows those flavors to deepen further.

Flexible finish:

The base of the tagine remains the same throughout the year, but finishing the dish with a mix of whatever produce happens to be at its peak at the farmers’ market helps to keep the dish fresh and seasonal.

Make ahead:

The tagine takes time, so you’ll want to start the recipe the day before you plan to serve it. To save time, you can make the spice mixture in advance. (It will keep in an airtight container for up to a month.) The chickpeas can be made a day or two ahead and stored in their cooking liquid.

Pop of freshness:

Garnishing the dish with a hearty dollop of lemony yogurt, along with the chopped mint and cilantro, adds a bright and fresh note to the finished dish.

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