A lemon-kissed roasted chicken

Citrus and apples perk up winter dish

Since I usually drink ice-loaded glasses of sweet lemonade on hot summer days, sometimes I find it hard to reconcile that lemons and most of their citrus siblings are winter fruit.

Like apples, lemons taste their best when harvested in the cooler months of the year because the lower temperatures signal the fruit’s inner cells to activate enzymes that help the fruit achieve its maximum flavor potential in taste, aroma and texture. But heat can also play a marvelous role in their transformation. Sear a lemon on the hot grates of a grill and you’ll immediately notice how much more fragrant it is. The same goes for including lemons and apples with a roast chicken.

When I roast meats in my oven, I usually prefer to “wet roast” them, because I find that it is a forgiving method that produces great results. Simply put, “wet” refers to the addition of liquid — such as water, broth or wine — in a pan over which the meat cooks. When the liquid transforms into steam, it creates humidity in the enclosed oven space, preventing the meat from drying out as it cooks. The liquid also starts to enrich in flavor as it collects the drippings from the meat. In turn, this mixture should be used to baste the meat, creating a much more flavorful roast.

Nik Sharma’s first solo cookbook is “Season” (Chronicle Books). Email: food@sfchronicle.com

Nik Sharma Lemons and apples are at their prime in cooler months.