ACQUERELLO >

Acquerello is proof that the classics should endure. At 30 years old, the restaurant shows its age, with red carpeting, white tablecloths and an ultra-attentive manner of service that has gone out of style since 1989. But chef Suzette Gresham’s French-accented Italian food still registers delight and occasionally even genuine surprise. Her Venetianinspired dish of marinated eel with salsa rossa, pine nuts and raisins, or her briny risotto with abalone and red dulse (seaweed) show a continued commitment to experimentation within this institution’s old-school confines. Favorite detail: The restaurant is located inside the chapel of a former funeral parlor. Study the ceiling, and it will make sense.

The other cool thing: The wine list is of an endangered species. Overseen by father and son Giancarlo and Gianpaolo Paterlini, the Acquerello cellar is nothing short of epic. There are few places you can find verticals of the Italian greats in this sort of quantity: Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Angelo Gaja. It’s also a treasure trove of Champagne, a passion of the younger Paterlini. Order: The nine-course seasonal tasting menu ($205) is the best bang for your buck, but the most fun way to experience Acquerello is to go prix fixe, where you can choose your own adventure in three-course ($105), four-course ($130) or five-course ($150) increments. Pastas are a highlight, including the spinach creste di galli pasta with Wagyu Bolognese and mint, and a single, large raviolo nearly bursting with brown butter. The always-on-the-menu bourboncaramel semifreddo might feel dated compared with the more modern desserts, but honestly, it’s so decadent and delicious that we don’t want it to ever change.

1722 Sacramento St., San Francisco. 415-567-5432 or www.acquerello.com. Dinner Tues.-Sat. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

— Esther Mobley