ATELIER CRENN >

When this restaurant earned three stars from the Michelin Guide in November, chef-owner Dominique Crenn received a whirlwind of attention as the first U.S. woman to receive such recognition. But what makes her restaurant relevant hasn’t changed. There is an intense focus on nature and seasonality, but unique to the Bay Area is the seafood- and vegetable-only tasting menu. It suits diners’ carbon-conscious ethos while also reflecting Crenn’s background in Brittany and her ties to the sea. And while many chefs use flowers and herbs as garnish, here they are geological elements: Rosemary sprigs emerge like redwoods from a fog of dry ice next to tiny geoduck tarts, and a blossom wreath creates a protective fortress around a delicate raw oyster cloaked in frozen rosewater.

Favorite detail: The words. The poem that diners receive in lieu of a menu seems precious at first, but works with the overall theatricality of the experience. “To bury in fallen leaves my treasures of earth and sea” is a course that involves a server crushing seeds and grains at the table to spoon over trout roe before adding dressing and tiny lettuces on top. One of the desserts created by pastry chef Juan Contreras, Heart Beet, is a blood red, heart-shaped frozen confection to be eaten by hand, the fleshy grain of the beets pulsating your taste buds as red liquid drips down your arm.

Thoughtful touches: The staff explains how dishes should be tackled, down to the utensils, without making it all too serious. A server smiled at me wryly and said, “These were grown for you,” when presenting a small planter of live lettuces that he then sprayed with dressing and snipped to garnish the cheese course. It’s an example of Crenn’s intensity, artistry and whimsy all tied together neatly.

Order: The tasting menu ($363, including tax and service) is the only option and must be prepaid when making a reservation on Tock. The wine pairing is $220.

3127 Fillmore St., San Francisco. 415-440-0460 or www.ateliercrenn.com. Dinner Tues.-Sat. Reservations required. Credit cards accepted.

— T.D.