CAFE OHLONE >

A result of diligent research and field work by chefs and partners Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino, Cafe Ohlone, a pop-up at University Press Books, is an exploration of what California cuisine looks like in the hands of Ohlone people who have lived here for millennia. The couple pair their menus with discussions about Ohlone history in the East Bay. Rendered with skill and heart, the dishes, like hearty skewers of smoked black trumpet mushrooms and Ohlone salad made of upland cress, local fruits and walnut oil, are a sensational introduction to a culture that has meant so much to this region. Who is this restaurant for? While Cafe Ohlone holds particular meaning for Ohlone people looking for a place to showcase their culture and community, the project is an accessible and thoughtful primer for anyone who wants to learn about California’s history. It’s very friendly but education-focused, so come with an open mind.

Thoughtful touches: Medina and Trevino are committed to a pre-colonial menu, which means that you won’t find gluten, refined sugar, corn, soy, dairy or alcohol on it. That makes this popup an easy choice for many diners with dietary limitations.

Pro tip: Since it’s really forage-heavy, the menu changes constantly with the seasons. Admission varies depending on the day, and the amount of food scales to match: $15 on Tuesdays, $25 on Thursdays, $100 on Saturdays and $50 on Sundays.

2430 Bancroft Way, Berkeley. www.makam ham.com. Check website for hours. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

— S.H.