FOREIGN CINEMA >

Foreign Cinema is special for many reasons. Besides the fact that it shows artsy films during dinner in one of the most singular (and beautiful) restaurant spaces on the West Coast, there’s the food. Whether dinner or brunch, the menus by chefowners Gayle Pirie and John Clark strike a unique chord: bohemian yet dialed in, playful yet poetic, staunchly seasonal and most importantly, delicious. Equally appropriate for a special occasion with a loved one or a “nice” brunch with family, the restaurant is that rare large-scale operation that balances a counterculture personality with a mainstream appeal and on-point professionalism. It was ahead of the curve when it opened two decades ago, and now its combination of global pantry (broccoli rabe Caesar, sesame and Madras curry fried chicken) and creative cocktails feels more current than ever.

A cool thing: This year, multiple media outlets have declared that 1999 was probably the best year ever for film, toasting the 20th anniversary of the likes of “The Matrix,” “Being John Malkovich,” “Office Space” and the masterful “10 Things I Hate About You.” So it’s a pretty neat coincidence that Foreign Cinema also opened in 1999.

Order: For dinner, start with oysters ($3.50-$5) and brandade ($16), move to something seasonal, and finish with the fried chicken ($26). For brunch, try a daytime cocktail, “pop tarts” ($7) and anything with an egg, like the sunny-side egg with grains and greens ($16).

2534 Mission St., San Francisco. 415-648-7600 or www.foreigncinema.com. Dinner nightly. Brunch weekends. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

— P.L.