THE MORRIS >

The Morris is about wine first and food second. It is the playground of longtime San Francisco sommelier Paul Einbund, whose personality pervades every inch of the establishment he owns. Is Chartreuse popular? No, but Einbund loves it, and he’s built up the Morris’ Chartreuse collection into one of the most impressive in the world.

Meanwhile, the food: It’s good, too. And while plenty of restaurants these days are doing house-made charcuterie, chef Gavin Schmidt gets more adventurous than most, with landjäger and spicy headcheese, plus duck offal confit.

Pro tip: It’s hard to see the bar when you walk into the Morris, but there is one — and the menu would lend itself well to a light (or heavy) snack if you’re not in the mood for a full dinner. The bar might also be the best spot to enjoy Einbund’s Chartreuse slushy ($10). Order: There’s a very memorable crab porridge with lemongrass ($18) and a spicy dish of charred broccoli and squid ($16), though the Morris’ signature is its largeformat smoked duck ($70 or $140). But it’s worth coming here just for a chance to peruse Einbund’s one-of-a-kind wine list, a cache that would make any wine lover drool, full of sought-after, hard-tofind bottles from wineries like Guiberteau, Clos Rougeard, Raveneau, Allemand and more. Einbund also has a thing for Madeira, offering an unheard-of 19 by the glass, including museum pieces like an 1850 D’Oliveira Verdelho ($260).

2501 Mariposa St., San Francisco. 415-612-8480 or www.the morris-sf.com. Dinner Mon.-Sat. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

— E.M.