San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

OUTERLANDS

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>Outer

Lana Porcello and Dave Muller’s

Sunset beacon toasted its 10th anniversar­y this year, and in many ways, it’s come full circle over the decade. It started as a humble beachside spot, and then became a sensation under the myriad talents of chef Brett Cooper. In the years after Cooper’s departure, the restaurant evolved. In recent months, it has pared down its menu, finding its way to the happy place it now occupies: an accessible place for locals, families, couples, vegetarian­s and meat eaters, one that still embodies its environmen­t as much as any restaurant in San Francisco. The other cool thing: Outerlands was neither the first nor last awesome restaurant to open in its neighborho­od, so if you find yourself spending a morning in the area — or perhaps that famed Outerlands brunch wait is too long — head on over to one of the many other lovely spots: Judaliciou­s (vegan cafe), Thanh Long (Vietnamese stalwart), Hook Fish (sustainabl­e fish tacos) and Celia’s (Mexican food and margaritas), just to name a few. The best time to go: Weekend brunch draws the masses, so be a contrarian and go for weekday lunch. There’s a happy hour, and the bartenders there are among the nicest — and most talented — cocktailia­ns west of 19th Avenue. Order: Anything with bread is a good rule of thumb, like the onion and cheese toast ($14). Be a good San Franciscan and go with the bowls: granola and goat yogurt ($10) during the day, grain bowl with vegetables ($20) in the evening.

4001 Judah St., San Francisco. 415-661-6140 or www.outerlands­f.com. 9 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-10 p.m. daily. Reservatio­ns and credit cards accepted.

— P.L.

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