RED’S JAVA HOUSE >

Perched on the edge of Pier 30 on the Embarcadero, the 89-year-old Red’s (nee Franco’s Lunch) narrowly beats the Pacifica Taco Bell when it comes to the Bay Area’s best dramatic view. Go on a blustery day and watch the waves smash into the sides of loading docks as you drink an Anchor Steam. When it’s sunny, take your burger — served here in a hollowed-out chamber of anonymous sourdough bread — outside and enjoy the old-school dock vibe. Location aside, the food at this dive is uncommonly unfussy, with the handwritten menu on the wall even proclaiming, “We Don’t Serve Lettuce or Tomato” (though, surprisingly, they have a decent vegetarian burger). That’s not to say that it doesn’t evolve: It added fries to the menu in 2001, after all. By 2019 gourmand standards, the non-name-brand food is just blah, but this kind of unique, sincere and accessible experience keeps drawing us back.

Who is this restaurant for? With tons of memorabilia and walkability to Oracle Park, this is a place made for history nerds and Giants fans, and it’s even better if you’re both. Foodies and conspicuous consumers won’t find much purchase here, but Red’s reminds us of all of the other reasons that we go out to eat: to watch the waves, to yell at the big game, to be together.

Order: Double cheeseburger ($9.58), vegetarian burger ($8.63), chili cheese fries ($7.88), fish & chips ($11.76)

Pier 30, San Francisco. 415-777-5626 or www. redsjavahouse.com. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.

— S.H.