SWAN OYSTER DEPOT

>whether

The hospitality at this 100-year-old seafood counter is remarkable,

you’re a regular or newcomer dreaming of fresh Dungeness crab. The staff at Swan are patient, with a gentle condescension that makes them seem less like gatekeepers than preschool teachers whose ultimate joy is to teach the uninitiated. They’re confident in their expertise, yet they fall all over themselves to make sure you’re taken care of.

Swan’s hidden menu is well documented and includes delights like the Sicilian sashimi ($20/$30/$40), a raw scallop sashimi called a Dozen Eggs ($20/$30/$40) and the formidable Crabsanthemum ($20/$39), a plateful of flaky Dungeness crab leg meat arranged like a grotesque yet stunning flower. The Dozen Eggs in particular is a beautiful preparation that highlights the creaminess of the sea scallops, sliced against the grain so that they melt under the lightest pressure. A dot of Sriracha sauce on each pale round brings to mind the elegance of nai wong bao, the Chinese steamed custard buns. All of these items can be ordered in various sizes.

Pro tip: Show up at 10 a.m. and you’ll likely be able to get in when they open the doors at 10:30 a.m. Otherwise, bring a good book, because you’ll be standing in line for a while.

Order: Crab back ($6), Dozen Eggs or thin-sliced raw scallops in ponzu ($20/$30/$40), Sicilian sashimi ($20/$30/$40), combination seafood cocktail ($15).

1517 Polk St., San Francisco. 415-673-1101 or www.swanoysterdepot.us. 10:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. (counter service winds down at 4:45 p.m.) No reservations; cash only.

— S.H.