The spaghetti reds

August Briggs Charbono Calistoga 2015 ($38, 13.6%): Textbook Charbono: warm tones, muscular tannins, juicy strawberry and raspberry flavors that stop just short of jammy. Wants a plate of red sauce pasta. Shypoke “Le Corbeau” Charbono Calistoga 2015 ($35, 14.1%): Peter Heitz farms his family’s Calistoga vineyard, where Charbono has grown since 1904. The Shypoke Charbono is polished, with fresh blueberry and cherry flavors, smooth tannins and warming baking spices. An appealing, seductive wine.

Tofanelli Charbono Calistoga 2016 ($43, 14.4%): Farmerwinemaker Vince Tofanelli produces one of the most ageworthy Charbonos in California from his estate vineyard. The 2016 exhibits both power and restraint: It’s animated, bold and ripe, with rustic tannins, juicy blackberry and mocha. Matt Morris “Ode to Bonarda” Napa Valley ($85, 14.5%): A

wine inspired by Argentina, where Charbono — known in that country as Bonarda — is the second most widely planted grape after Malbec. Here, those two grapes are blended together, for a nose that conveys both a woodsy, cedarlike character and ripe, exuberant fruit. Lightly grippy tannins meet a texture that crescendos across the palate. Arbe Garbe “Benandants” Charbono Calistoga Shypoke Vineyard 2016 ($70, 15%): The outlier, in the appassimento method used to produce Amarone. He left the grapes to dry for 54 days before fermentation, resulting in an intense, rich style. It’s irresistible, full of roasty, chocolaty, mocha aromas and flavors. Calder Charbono Rutherford 2016 ($30, 11.8%): The leanest expression of Charbono in this tasting, this wine from winemaker Rory Williams wafts a floral nose, with mint and lightred fruit tones. Give it a few minutes to open up.

Inizi Charbono Calistoga 2015 ($38, 13.4%): A rustic, juicy wine brimming with plum, strawberry and cassis. It gives a big, tannic, velvety hug, lingering with spiciness. An excellent expression of Charbono’s bold side. TVine Charbono Calistoga Frediani Vineyard 2012 ($45, 14.5%): Already 5 years old, this wine still tastes tight, with enormous tannins that nevertheless feel smooth and agreeable. It’s savory rather than fruity, with graphite and licorice flavors. Big but balanced. You’ll want some food with this. Lava Vine Charbono Calistoga Skypoke Vineyard 2015 ($36, 13.4%): Bright, ripe, brambly fruit leads this wine’s aromas. Reminiscent of Zinfandel with bluetoned fruits and zesty spices. A softened, mellower version of Charbono.

Artezin Calistoga Heitz Ranch 2015 ($30, 12.6%): From Hess Collection winemaker Randle Johnson, this lighter, softer expression of Charbono shows black fruits, wild herb and cinnamon flavors. Robert Foley Charbono Napa Valley 2015 ($38, 13.2%):

Rose, wild herb and dusty strawberry notes lead the aromas and flavors of this wine. It’s energetic, with a firm frame of tannins, finishing with a pleasantly bitter hint of anise. Markham Charbono Napa Valley 2016 ($35, 13.2%): Here is a quieter Charbono, appearing much darker and bolder than it tastes. Dark fruit flavors — plum, black cherry — whisper within a soft, plush texture. A dose of Petite Sirah rounds it out. Las Jaras “Glou Glou” Charbono Mendocino County 2017 ($30, 12%): This emphatically grapeytasting natural wine smells like bubblegum and roses. The palest Charbono I’ve ever seen, the wine wants a chill.