San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Repertoire
What you need in your pantry right now.
You may have discovered, in this first week of sheltering in place, that your family eats more than you thought, especially when cooped up and stressed out. My family of four needs a dozen meals a day, plus coffee and snacks and, because now is not the time to give up sugar, we need dessert, too. And, like most of you, I’m trying to go to the grocery store as infrequently as possible.
You’ve probably already stocked up on some dry goods, and while you can live on pantry goods alone, things will be a lot more pleasant with some vegetables and fruit. Look for those that don’t need to be refrigerated, since fridge space may be at a premium: Beets, potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, parsnips, cabbage, apples and citrus can all hang out at room temperature for a long time.
Frozen vegetables are useful. Frozen fruit, too: mangoes, bananas and berries are perfect for smoothies, or a pie (pie will help). Hardy fresh herbs, such as parsley and rosemary, can pep up any pantry meal, as can garlic and lemon juice or zest. Once you’re stocked up with the essentials, here are 25 ideas for what to make with what you have on hand.
BEANS
1 Canned white beans, drained and processed in the food processor with lots of olive oil, salt and pepper and some minced fresh rosemary: Instant sandwich spread or dip.
2 Canned white beans, coarsely mashed with a can of tuna, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Add parsley or basil if you have it.
3 Saute an onion and a clove of garlic in olive oil. Add a bit of ground cumin. Stir in a can of (undrained) black or pinto beans. Simmer until hot; mash some of the beans with the back of a fork if you want to make it creamier. Serve over rice or with tortillas or tortilla chips.
4 Combine a few cans of garbanzo beans, a few crushed garlic cloves and a few cups of chicken stock in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then spoon into bowls and shower generously with Parmesan cheese and season with cracked pepper. Top with a poached egg, if you like.
5 Saute some garlic and a pinch of red pepper flakes in olive oil. Add broccoli (or kale, broccoli rabe or Swiss chard) and cook until it’s tender or wilted, then stir in a can of drained beans (white or garbanzo). Stir the whole mess into some cooked pasta.
6 In a bowl, combine a few cans of drained beans or some cooked lentils. Add some crumbled cheese (feta, goat cheese, queso fresco) and whatever vegetables you have in your crisper: grated carrots, thinly sliced celery, scallions, cherry tomatoes. In a jar, combine a spoonful of mustard, 1 part vinegar and salt, then add 3 parts olive oil. Shake like hell, then pour over the salad. Add canned sardines or tuna, if you like.
7 A can of drained white beans, a can of tomato sauce, some mozzarella, ricotta or Parmesan, and the broiler: Pizza beans! Add some sliced salami or pepperoni, if you have it.
8 Combine 1 cup chana dal and 4 cups water in a medium saucepan. Stir in 1 teaspoon ground turmeric. Cover partially and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and saucy (but not soupy), for 40 to 50 minutes. Heat ½ cup of vegetable oil or ghee in a frying pan. Add 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds and cook for 30 seconds, then add 1 diced onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is deeply browned, 20 minutes. Stir into the dal and season to taste with salt.
RICE/GRAINS/PASTA
9 Pandemic or not, fried rice is one of my favorite meals. Use dayold rice and whatever else you have on hand. Frozen peas and corn are good; chunks of hot dog or other bits of protein (like tofu, bacon, leftover chicken or steak) are nice; add a beaten egg and some scallions if you’ve got them, or a handful of spinach (fresh or frozen, drained and chopped) or mushrooms or grated carrot. Season with soy sauce, tamari or coconut aminos.
10 Rice pudding: Simmer together ½ cup uncooked rice, ½ cup sugar and 4½ cups milk, halfandhalf or coconut milk in a covered saucepan for 15 minutes. Uncover and cook 10 minutes more until the rice is tender. Stir in an egg yolk and return to a simmer until thickened; top with fruit (fresh or dried).
11 Make risotto: Saute an onion in a couple tablespoons of butter. Add 1 cup arborio (or other short grain white) rice and cook a few minutes more. Add hot chicken stock (boxed is fine) by the ladleful, stirring after each addition until all the stock is absorbed (you’ll need about 6 cups). When the rice is tender and creamy, stir in some frozen peas or corn, a knob of butter, lots of salt and some grated cheese.
12 Make jook: Boil a small amount (1 cup) of rice in a large amount (12 cups) of chicken stock (boxed is fine) with a few fat slices of fresh ginger until the rice is tender; season generously with salt to taste. Add slivered scallions, sesame oil, chopped peanuts
and kimchi, if you have it. Top with a poached or softboiled egg (optional).
13 Cook a lot of slivered garlic in oil until soft (but not brown); add a few anchovy fillets if you like them. Add a few pinches of red pepper flakes. Dump in some cooked pasta and toss to coat. Add minced parsley and breadcrumbs if you have them. You could add capers, if you want, or swap sar
dines for the anchovies.
14 In a medium skillet, toast some coarsely ground black pepper in some butter until fragrant. Add cooked pasta to the skillet, a ladle of the starchy pasta cooking water, and a big handful of grated Pecorino Romano. Toss with tongs over low heat until the sauce coats the noodles; remove from the heat and add a big handful of Parmesan. Eat out of the pan.
15 Cut up some pancetta or bacon and saute in a large skillet. Remove the browned meat and cook a diced onion in the fat. Add a pinch of red pepper flakes, a can of tomato sauce and some cooked pasta and toss to coat.
16 Cook instant ramen according to package instructions. Top with a slice of American cheese, some toasted sesame seeds and some chopped scallion (thanks, Roy Choi).
17 In the blender whiz together peanut butter (or miso or tahini), minced ginger, minced garlic, soy sauce, brown sugar and rice vinegar; add hot water to thin to a saucelike consistency. Pour over cooked rice noodles, ramen noodles or soba noodles; add any sad vegetables in your crisper drawer.
EGGS
18 Heat up some marinara sauce in a skillet. Make a few indentations in the sauce with the back of your spoon, and crack an egg into each. Cover and simmer gently until the eggs are set; serve with bread.
19 Make biscuits (Bisquick is fine if you’ve got it). Top with fried eggs and cheese (or braised brisket, see No. 25).
20 Got eggs and potatoes? Make a frittata or a Spanish tortilla. Serve the latter with mayonnaise gussied up with lemon juice and some minced garlic.
21 Make a big pan of scrambled eggs. Pile them onto tortillas, season with hot sauce and add a dollop of sour cream or Greek yogurt if you have it. Beans (see No. 3) are optional.
22 Whisk some miso into hot water until you have a strong, savory broth. Poach eggs in the liquid. Add some cubed (shelfstable) tofu; garnish with seaweed or sliced scallions.
MISCELLANEOUS
23 Fry a few tablespoons of curry paste (red, yellow or green) in a few tablespoons of vegetable oil. Pour in canned coconut milk and a bit of boxed chicken or vegetable stock. Add whatever vegetables you have, starting with the hardy ones such as potatoes and carrots (along with any raw meat, if using, cut into small pieces), and adding more tender (or frozen) vegetables and tofu when the hardier ones are almost done. Serve with rice.
24 Wrap a block of extrafirm tofu in several sheets of paper towels and place a heavy pan on it. Let stand for 20 minutes, then use your hands to tear it into pieces. Fry in coconut oil, vegetable or peanut oil until crispy. Drizzle with soy sauce and a squeeze of lime juice. Toss in some toasted coconut or chopped peanuts. Serve with rice.
25 If you’re a carnivore, now is the time to go big. Make a whole pork shoulder, braise an entire brisket, roast two chickens side by side. Then use the meat in salads, tacos, hash, soup. Freeze what you can’t eat right away; you’ll be glad to have it in a few weeks.