San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Snag the site of your dreams
In the past few years, trying to reserve a marquee trail camp for a Saturday night could feel like looking for a polar bear in the desert. In the wake of the coronavirus pandemic and vaccine rollouts, those who stay on top of opening dates for trail camps across the region in the coming months have a good chance of finding that polar bear.
Each county’s orders will determine when their campgrounds will reopen. Most sites will cost $20 or $25 per night.
As sites reopen, the most in demand this year will be the walkin trail camps at Angel Island State Park and the Wildcat Trail Camp at Point Reyes National Seashore, where virtually every date and site will likely sell out quickly.
Lesserknown sites in the Ohlone Wilderness, which often require longer hikes, provide a far better chance of success.
New this summer are widespread closures across the burn areas of Point Reyes National Seashore (35 sites closed), Big Basin Redwoods State Park (52 sites closed) and Henry W. Coe State Park (eight formal trail camps closed, plus dozens of dispersed sites). That will likely shift the focus to other areas, of course.
Many trail camps are off the mainstream radar. One of the best destinations known by few, for instance, is at Black Mountain at Montebello Open Space Preserve on the Peninsula.
Region by region, here’s what works.
Marin County
Angel Island State Park: For campers, the island becomes your own after the last ferry of the day departs. You get sensational night views of the lights of the Golden Gate and San Francisco, jaw-dropping sunrises, sunsets and bay views that make the experience of camping at Angel Island like no other. At State Park headquarters, Jorge Moreno, the information officer who stays on top of campground status, suggested the public monitor the park’s website for its status. Reserve at www.ReserveCalifornia.com. Angel Island State Park, 415-4355390, www.parks.ca.gov. Point Reyes National Seashore: Wildcat Camp is perched on a terraced bluff above the beach, where vegetation separates the campsites and provides privacy. You get shoreline views of Drakes Bay, access to miles of wilderness beach and the hike south for a mile to the foot of Alamere Falls. With the closure of Glen, Sky and Coast camps, all in the Woodward Fire Zone, getting a reservation at Wildcat will be like booking a trip to the moon. Reserve starting at 7 a.m., six months ahead to the day, at www.Recreation.gov. Point Reyes National Seashore, 415-464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore. Marin Headlands: Of four trail camps, Kirby Cove is the favorite, in a cove with the private beach just west of the north foot of the Golden Gate Bridge. It provides one of the prettiest waterfront views in the Bay Area (and the site of TV commercials). To get there requires an easy downhill hike on a road to a blufftop terrace. Most sites are set in woodlands, with a few small flat spots just above the bluff. Hawk Camp is a small camp with three sites, up to four people per site, that requires a 2.5-mile hike with a climb out of the Tennessee Valley Trailhead parking lot. Haypress is a 0.7miles hike from the same trailhead, with the nearby hike to Tennessee Cove a favorite. Bicentennial Campground requires only a 100-yard walk. When reopened, reserve sites at Bicentennial or Kirby Cove at www.recreation.gov. Park information: www.nps.gov/goga. Steep Ravine: The camping cabins, perched atop Rocky Point, are one of the hottest camping tickets in the state, often selling out in 10 minutes for each date and site available. Nearby are several trail camps, which require a short walk. You get access to a nearby secluded beach, excellent sunsets and whale watching. When reopened, reserve at www. ReserveCalifornia.com. China Camp State Park: China Camp is best known for its gorgeous shoreline, historic village and pier, and picnic sites along San Pablo Bay. Yet a campground with a series of walk-in forest sites is treasured by those who stay here. Reserve at www.ReserveCalifornia.com. Mount Tamalpais State Park: Pantoll walk-in and Bootjack, both located along the Panoramic Highway, provide walk-in sites, firstcome, first-served. Pantoll is the more desirable, with gorgeous sites
under a forest canopy, with nearby access to the trail into Steep Ravine.
Mount Tamalpais State Park, 415388-2070, www.parks.ca.gov.
East Bay hills
Ohlone Wilderness: The Ohlone Wilderness Trail travels 28 miles from Del Valle Regional Park through Sunol Wilderness to Mission Peak and has 16 trail camps along the way. Trail camps in the Ohlone Wilderness could provide an outlet for many who find themselves out of luck for Saturdays at Point Reyes and Angel Island. Ohlone Wilderness Permit required, plus campsite reservation. Reserve at 888-327-2757, option 2. www.ebparks.org. East Bay Parks: Sibley has a littleknown trail camp that often has available sites. Better known is that Chabot has walk-in sites perched on the wooded ridge that looms over the back wall of Lake Chabot. A series of little-known wildflower blooms, best during spring, are well hidden at Black Diamond Mines, Morgan Territory and Round Valley.
East Bay Regional Park District, 888-327-2757, www.ebparks.org.
S.F. Peninsula
Black Mountain Trail Camp: The Black Mountain Trail Camp is perched at Monte Bello Open Space Preserve off upper Page Mill Road. It features nearby sandstone formations
that look like a movie set and
views across the South Bay. View site availability calendar at www. openspace.org, then follow online protocols. Midpeninsula Open Space District, 650-691-1200, www. openspace.org.
Santa Clara County
Henry W. Coe State Park, Gilroy: The SCU Lightning Complex Fire burned about two-thirds of the park. The landscape here responds well to fires, with fresh grass repainting the foothills, often with wildflowers. But until park managers and county health officials give the OK, all sites remain closed. Eight formal trail camps closed, plus dozens of dispersed sites, are in the burn zone. When they reopen, the best jump-off spot is the Hunting Hollow Trailhead (east of Gilroy, not park headquarters east of Morgan Hill), to Kelly Lake and beyond to Coit Lake and Mississippi Lake. The park has 81 trail camps, including 29 in the easier-to-reach Western Zone. Many ranch-style ponds are available; take your pick. $5 per person per night, plus parking fee. Henry W. Coe State Park, 408-779-2728, www.parks.ca.gov.
Santa Cruz Mountains
Portola Redwoods: Slate Trail Camp at Portola Redwoods is on the route out to the Bay Area’s “Lost World,” the little-seen grove of old-growth redwoods along remote Peters Creek. Portola Redwoods State Park, 650-948-9098, www. parks.ca.gov.