San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

Fried Anchovy & Garlicky Chicken With Cucumber Basil Salad

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Serves 4

This fried chicken takes on the umami of anchovy, the pungency of garlic, heat and spice for a quartet of flavors. The cucumber salad, which is inspired by Thai green papaya slaw, will brighten and add a fresh crunch.

1¾ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs (4-5 thighs)

4 teaspoons finely chopped anchovies

4 teaspoons finely chopped garlic

1½ teaspoons ground chile flakes

1½ teaspoons finely ground black pepper

Kosher salt

1½ pounds Persian cucumbers (about 5-6 cucumbers)

¼ cup olive oil

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar

1 small jalapeño, sliced very thinly

1 pint small Early Girl or regular-size cherry tomatoes Canola oil or other neutral oil, for frying (4 to 6 cups)

½ cup all-purpose flour

6 tablespoon­s rice flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

6 ounces plain or citrus flavored sparkling water

½ cup basil leaves, large leaves torn in half

Instructio­ns:

Score the non-skin side of the chicken thighs and add to a large dish to marinate with the anchovy, garlic, ground chile, black pepper and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Using your hands, mix everything well so there’s no clumping and every nook and cranny is marinated. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes at room temperatur­e; if you want to marinate longer, set in the fridge, and then let sit at room temp for 30 minutes before cooking

While the chicken is marinating, cut the cucumbers into long, roughly ¼-inch thick spears. To do that, first cut the ends off. Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise, then slice those two halves in half again, then again, creating 8 thin spears. Larger or smaller than average Persian cucumbers may need to be sliced again or even less.

Add the olive oil, lemon juice, sugar, jalapeño and 1 teaspoon salt to a large bowl and whisk to dissolve the sugar and salt. Add the cucumber and tomatoes and toss well with your hands. Set aside

When ready to fry, add about 2½-3 inches of the oil to a large pot like a Dutch oven. Heat the oil to 375 degrees.

While the oil is heating, whisk together the flours and baking powder in another large bowl or dish. Add the sparkling water in a slow steady stream, whisking and banging out any pesky clumps that get stuck in the whisk and in the batter itself until smooth. The consistenc­y should cloak the whisk or your finger but slide off, like a loose runny yogurt. Add the chicken and toss to coat each piece very well.

When the oil is hot, add one piece at a time, and after 1 minute add another piece. Cook, turning them halfway through using metal tongs or a spider until both pieces are cooked though, crispy and golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to cool and season with salt. Repeat with the remaining two pieces.

Toss the basil in with the cucumbers and serve with the warm fried chicken.

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