Mortared Basil Pesto With Trofie Pasta

Serves 4

It’s added to everything these days from frozen TJ’s pizza to “gourmet” grilled cheese. But pesto’s ubiquity obscures its humble origins, back when someone decided to simply smash basil leaves in a mortar with some garlic and pine nuts and call it a sauce. Purists still swear by the mortared method, and we do, too, though you do need a larger mortar to pull this one off. Not only does it render the basil leaves into a silky puree, releasing all of their anise-y, pungent aroma and flavor molecules like no food processor can, it’s also the most stress-relieving way to experience pesto. Especially on a particularly tough day, when you happen to have basil growing in your garden, or on your windowsill, anyway. Sure, the premade kind can be tasty, too — but once you smash, you may never go back. From “Steamed: A Catharsis Cookbook for Getting Dinner and Your Feelings on the Table” (Running Press; $20) by Rachel Levin and Tara Duggan.

¼ teaspoon salt, plus more for the water and seasoning to taste

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled

¼ cup pine nuts or walnuts

4 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves (about 4 ounces on the stem), thick stems removed

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more to serve

12 ounces trofie pasta or spaghetti

Bring a pot of water to a boil for the pasta, and salt generously. Pour the olive oil into a measuring cup with a spout.

Place ¼ teaspoon of salt and the garlic clove in a large mortar and pound with a pestle until smooth. Add the pine nuts and continue to pound until they have turned to a pulp. This next part is where things get serious, requiring a few minutes of constant pounding, so have a friend or family member available to step in when your tricep gets sore. Begin adding the basil leaves, a handful at a time, and pound vigorously, adding more as you go. Keep pounding and smashing, bringing in reinforcements if you have to, until any stringy stems have transformed into small particles and you achieve a smooth, bright green paste.

Add a tablespoon or two of oil to the paste and mix in. Add the cheese, smash to combine, then drizzle in the rest of the oil slowly while continuing to pound and mix the sauce. Taste and add more salt if you like.

Cook the pasta according to the package directions. When draining, reserve ½ cup of the water. Return the pasta to the pot and stir in the pesto with a drizzle or two of the pasta water, if needed, to help thinly coat the noodles with the sauce. Season to taste with salt, and serve right away with the extra Parmesan on the side.