San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

Refuge, San Mateo

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Pastrami favorite Refuge finally debuted its muchantici­pated third location at the Hillsdale Shopping Center in San Mateo in late June, as part of the center’s buzzy North Block, which has become its own dining destinatio­n with restaurant­s including Palette Tea House and Shake Shack. The newest Refuge celebrates the same tender pastrami as the other two restaurant­s. Pastrami — which is brined, lightly smoked and then steamed for hours — comes piled high on toasted rye bread for reuben sandwiches, sliced thin over beef patties for a pastrami burger with Russian dressing or in hunks over a chopped salad. Look for new menu items only served at Refuge San Mateo, like a burger topped with mole sauce, plus lots of Belgian beer on tap.

Coowners Matt Levin and Melanie Roth opened the first Refuge in San Carlos in 2008 and expanded to downtown Menlo Park in 2013. Guy Fieri praised Refuge’s pastrami in season 18 of his hit show “Diners, DriveIns and Dives.”

Indoor and outdoor dining, takeout and delivery. SundayThur­sday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. FridaySatu­rday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. 66 31st Ave., San Mateo. refugesc.com/

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