San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
A taste of Oakland’s Temescal
Expect spicy East African stew, funky natural wines and boutiques to explore
Oakland’s Temescal makes a strong case for the most compelling dining neighborhood in the East Bay. Combined with its cute boutiques prime for shopping, it’s the ideal candidate for our Best Day Ever series.
Many visit this slice of North Oakland for its hip new restaurants, buzzy natural wine bars and succulent-lined beer gardens, but the neighborhood has long been known for its high density of excellent Ethiopian, Eritrean and Korean spots. The Freedom Farmers’ Market, which spotlights Black and other historically underserved farmers, just expanded to year-round service. (It hits Telegraph Avenue at 46th Street on the second Saturday of the month in the winter. On the weekends when it’s not open, check out the festive, family-friendly vibes at the Sunday Temescal Farmers’ Market instead.)
While some Bay Area commercial corridors have suffered during the pandemic, Temescal continues to thrive. Among the businesses slated to open soon are Roux40, a restaurant focused on Black heritage cuisine, and Root’d in the 510, a cannabis dispensary and consumption lounge.
We are highlighting the best in food- and beverage-oriented shopping ideas, sprinkled among dining picks for morning, afternoon, night and late night. Of course, there are also many lovely boutiques specializing in jewelry, clothing, board games and plants. To maximize options while staying walkable, we venture outside the Temescal borders slightly to enjoy all that North Oakland has to offer. Keep in mind that some businesses may be closed or have limited access due to COVID-19, and while not yet required in the city of Oakland, many of these restaurants require proof of vaccination for indoor seating.
Aman Cafe opened this summer with a rare focus: flaky, stretchy Malaysian roti canai. The restaurant comes from Tiyo Shibabaw, who took over the space next door to her popular Burmese restaurant Teni East Kitchen to fulfill demand for a casual, daytime cafe with a mostly vegetarian menu. The short, all-day menu features buttery, layered flatbreads with savory accompaniments like tofu, vegan sausage or vegetables in a rich coconut sauce spiced with berbere from Shibabaw’s native Ethiopia. Each costs about $10 and will leave you light enough for more shopping, though you may want to add a sweet roti to share for dessert, perhaps topped with seasonal fruit and condensed milk. Afterward, walk next door to Umami Mart, a store specializing in Japanese housewares, beverages and snacks that relocated from downtown Oakland in 2019. The selection of sake is particularly impressive, as are the beautiful Japanese ceramics and drinking vessels. Wind back to Telegraph Avenue for more shopping, and take a break at one of Temescal’s breweries. On a sunny afternoon, it’s tough to beat a hazy IPA at Temescal Brewing’s pastel beer garden.
4021 Broadway, Oakland. 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Saturday. amancafeoakland.com
Above, the Roti Comfort at Aman Cafe comes with crispy roti and soy tofu tossed mixed veggies. Left, check out the colorful, flavored salts at Old Salt Merchants in hip Temescal Alley.
Soleil Ho is The San Francisco Chronicle's restaurant critic. Email: soleil@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @hooleil