San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
Capelo’s Barbecue is clearly aiming to spread the gospel of Southern-style barbecue throughout the Bay Area.
Risket to luscious links, plus spicy and smoky sauces
Moon Bay. Sandwiches, tacos and salads are available, too. and spicy barbecue sauce, another that’s mustard-based, two different hot sauces, vinegar flavored with peppers, chow chow relish and a vinegary Alabama white sauce. The brisket ($16 for a half pound) is gelatinous and peppery. The pulled pork ($13 for a half pound) is rich and salty. The sausage links ($8) are plump and bouncy. But the obvious showstopper is the obsidian-crusted, pink-flesh pork ribs ($19 for a half pound). Even though these baby back ribs have a dark crust, they aren’t overly smoked, and the meat is so succulent you’ll want to clean the bone of the precious flesh. The side game here is also strong. Options include cold potato salad ($3.50 for 8 ounces) for a break from the smoke, lucious white cheddar mac and cheese ($5 for 8 ounces), starchy spiced ranch-style beans ($3.50 for 8 ounces) and two types of pickles: tangy dill ($2) and sweet bread and butter ($3). Pig in a Pickle, which has abundant indoor and outdoor seating, is located in a Corte Madera mall that buzzes with constant movement. It’s surreal that you can find barbecue this good at a mall, but that’s part of the joint’s appeal. The barbecue operation also has a location in Emeryville, which will re-open in August. page to find out about other appearances.
The only real way to get to this spot is by driving. It’s on the side of a one-lane road in Byron, a census-designated place in Contra Costa County surrounded by farms and arid grass. If the sun is out, expect sweltering heat. But it’s worth the trip because this roadside restaurant really captures the essence of Texas barbecue. The meat is ordered by the pound, and pork is king here. Order the flavorful, crusty ribs ($18 per pound) and mahogany-colored pulled pork ($20 per pound) that’s juicy and tastes of cracked pepper. The brisket ($24 per pound) is worth trying too, so tender from the smoke that the only things holding it together are muscle fibers and hope. (Avoid the burnt ends here, as the center cuts have a better distribution of salt.) Make sure to ask for a side of cumin-forward barbecue sauce, which strikes a nice balance of spice, acid and sweetness without going overboard on the sugar. To accompany your meal, try the spicy jalapeño-cheddar grits ($5.25) and spiced ranchero beans ($4.25). Outdoor dining only.